For many people Port Royal conjures images of sword-wielding, rope swinging, tough but fair fighting scoundrels. Yet a journey through this laid-back seaside town of approximately 2,000 people will not immediately bring pirates to mind. Noticeable are fishing boats, a well-preserved 17th century fort, and the Jamaican Coast Guard. For the traveller interested in both an immersion in Jamaica’s history and an experience of culture today, Port Royal’s historic buildings and underwater Sunken City are perfectly matched with its safe, walkable streets, restaurants, and bars.
There’s a lot of mystery and fascination surrounding the sleepy fishing village of Port Royal. It’s a small town located at the very tip of Kingston, at the far end of the harbour, away from the capital city’s flashing lights and busy thoroughfares.
The main site to visit in Port Royal is Fort Charles which was the backdrop to many historic events in the town. Constructed between 1655 - 1660, the fort was designed in the shape of a ship to trick seafarers into believing that it was a vessel at sea. On the tour, you will see many cannons, the major weapon of the day. Visitors learn that the fort worked in tandem with buccaneers; privateers who were given licenses to attack ships off the coast of Jamaica, part of the British defence mechanism to deter its enemies. These privateers were not the romanticized Hollywood swashbucklers but individuals who, like plantation owners, benefitted from the misery of others. The so-called “booty” of privateers included captured enslaved Africans who would be trafficked for profit. Your tour guide will tell you about Henry Morgan, who rose to the highest levels in Jamaican society, acquiring multiple sugar plantations and slaves, even becoming Lieutenant-Governor.
Sir Henry Morgan, Lt.Gov. of Jamaica, from the National Library of Jamaica Digital Collection
At the fort you will also see the old artillery store, known as the Giddy House. Built in 1888, it was damaged by the 1907 earthquake, and now leans dramatically, causing you to feel off balance when you enter. From Nelson’s Quarterdeck you are high enough to see the location of the Sunken City, the section of Port Royal that broke off and was buried underwater as a result of the massive 1692 earthquake.
The old artillery store or 'Giddy House' which was damaged in the 1907 earthquake
The tour of the fort lasts approximately 45 minutes and once finished, you can take a walk through the town towards the famous Gloria’s Seafood Restaurants. (The one on Queen Street has an amazing view of Kingston city.) On the way you will pass St. Peter’s Church. If the church is open, you can respectfully request to enter. In the churchyard are graves, including one for Lewis Galdy, a man initially swallowed by the earth in the 1692 earthquake, and then spat out a short while later. On your journey, you may pass vendors selling an assortment of items, from water to avocados, see people waiting at the bus stop, men playing dominoes. A friendly smile goes a long way.
As you continue through Port Royal, you may choose to walk by the 19th century Naval Hospital, and if you believe in such things, pause to see if you can hear the sighs of the ghosts that locals say haunt the building. At Gloria’s, patience is recommended. It’s a popular eatery and food is done to order, but it's worth the wait. (Pro tip: order your food at the restaurant before doing the tour at Fort Charles.) You may also enjoy a delicious meal at the Grand Hotel Excelsior or YKnot Bar and Grill, a hangout spot with outdoor seating and great views of the harbour. These are also jumping off points for charters to the cays off Kingston's coast. Lime Cay is a popular choice for a beach trip.
Take a short boat ride over to Lime Cay for a fun beach day
Port Royal has understandably been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Here, we have ruins telling the fascinating story of people in conflict, the rise and fall of empires, of enslavement, and yes, of piracy. The people of Port Royal also tell a story of survival. Walking through the old fort, eating a delicious seafood meal, and sipping rum punch make for a thoughtful but thoroughly enjoyable way to spend a few hours.
About the Author
Karen Hutchinson is CEO of Jamaica Cultural Tours. Book one of their Kingston tours for authentic and well-curated experiences for culture seekers.
Jamaica Cultural Tours is passionate about showcasing the best of Jamaica’s vibrant culture through tours and transportation. From…