Paula Hynes: A Parisian Christmas amid France's farmer protests

The passion and flair the French have for food means they are very accepting of seeing their farmers protest, writes Cork dairy farmer Paula Hynes
Paula Hynes: A Parisian Christmas amid France's farmer protests

Paris getting in the festive mood.

The key goal with the farm is to wind down the workload a little as we get closer to Christmas, but this week I am hanging up my wellies for a little break. 

My birthday was a number of weeks ago, and my husband Pete had been chatting to a friend of ours in Paris, and then gave me a flight ticket to Paris to catch up with the girls and enjoy a very festive Paris.

Christmas is always one of my favourite times of year. I’ve previously been to Lapland with Georgie, but I’m not sure there is anywhere more magical than Paris in full festive mode. 

Notre Dame is back open to the public and has a wonderful Christmas market, as does the Eiffel Tower. Wonderful temporary timber chalets are erected with lots of gift shops, artisan products, and of course, the very best of food. 

The French have a true culinary passion and a huge pride for where they source their food across France.

One of my favourite parts of Paris is the area by the Louvre, which opens out into the Tuilleries Gardens, which gets transformed into a magical winter wonderland in December. 

The Ferris wheel there is 200ft high, and there are 100 stalls selling crafts and culinary experiences — no better place to enjoy a hot chocolate and a crepe while watching a busy ice skating rink. 

The Tuilleries Gardens has one of the most amazing festive views as you can see the whole way along a magically decorated Champs Elysees, a 2km avenue adorned with Christmas lights.

Unfortunately, Pete couldn’t make it to Paris this Christmas due to the daily routine on the farm. We were there  together 30 years ago at Christmas time and had a magical nighttime trip to the very top of the Eiffel Tower to watch Paris sparkle in the darkness. 

It was that night he told me he would marry me, and perhaps Paris sprinkled a little of its love on us that night, as we will be 25 years married next year. 

Farm Exam columnist Paula Hynes in Paris
Farm Exam columnist Paula Hynes in Paris

Life is about adventures and great adventures always bring new friends. We met Gloria and Luca a few years ago and have become amazing friends; she is one of the very top photographers in Paris. I have been lucky enough to stand in front and behind her camera lens, she empowers women and every time we meet I feel like my confidence grows. 

Her partner Luca is originally from Sardinia in Italy but has lived in Paris for over 20 years and has a vast understanding of the hospitality industry. 

He runs his own bar and has placed himself as a superb ambassador for Ireland in the French capital as he serves what is ranked as the second best pint of Guinness, the attention to detail in how he stores the black stuff, manages the pipes, taps and glasses along with how he has mastered the pour means Guinness is 50% of his sales in the bar. 

He also has a microbrewery in the bar producing 500 litres of craft beer in a batch. It has become so popular that the microbrewery is due to be moved to a new location and scaled up to a 2,500-litre production capacity.

I often think Gloria and her friends could be great mentors to female farming groups, they meet weekly for lunch or dinner; they all lead hectic lives within their respective businesses, so it guarantees a break from work. 

They share business ideas while also looking at how they can collaborate better, from marketing to adding further value and also discussing what attracts international clients. 

This group of women followed their dreams and pursued their passion, Gloria hails from Colombia. She dreamed of being a photographer and living in Paris, and her hard work and determination means she has achieved both. 

Onorina grew up in Moldova, moved to Paris over a decade ago and is now one of the very top hair and makeup stylists. She is so successful that she travels France and Europe for wedding clients and also has over 10 employees. 

The group are always intrigued about farming, somewhat baffled that we as farmers produce food before we find out what we will be paid for that produce. They are all well aware that farmers continually have to protest in France to fight for better rights.

Yet again, French farmers have been protesting in the south of France due to how the Lumpy Skin Disease outbreak is being handled. The disease was detected in France in June, and since then, 3,000 animals have been culled. 

Over 200 French riot police moved in earlier in the week to escort a team of vets onto a farm to cull 200 cows. The disease originated in Africa, and like Bluetongue, it is mainly spread by biting insects. 

The French protests will move to Brussels this week as French poultry farmers are struggling due to Avian Flu outbreaks, and Vineyard farmers are being crippled by lower consumption and cheap imports. 

The passion and flair the French have for food means they are very accepting of their farmers protesting.

What I love about spending time with friends in Paris at Christmas is visiting the hidden gems that locals know about and getting away from the tourist trail. 

At least none of us had to worry about Christmas groceries as Luca heads for Sardinia to see family, Gloria heads to Colombia for a festive break with her parents and I return to the Emerald Isle to enjoy family time before Becky heads to Australia. 

With this being my last piece in the Farming Examiner of 2025, I want to thank you all for reading my column during the year. It was wonderful to meet so many of you at shows and I want to wish you all a very happy, safe and peaceful Christmas.

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