What Actually Works To Boost Your Collagen? Derms Bust Some Myths

“Collagen” is a big buzzword in the skin care world — and it’s not hard to see why.

As collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, it’s very, very important for beautiful, youthful skin.

“Collagen is a structural protein that makes up the scaffolding of our skin,” said Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a New York-based dermatologist and chief medical officer at DermOnDemand. “It provides strength, elasticity, and firmness — qualities we associate with youthful, healthy skin.”

But as we get older, changes in collagen affect the quality and appearance of our skin.

“As we get older, our collagen does too,” said Dr. Sungat Grewal, a double-board-certified dermatologist and co-director of laser surgery and aesthetic medicine at the University of California, San Francisco, Health. “Around age 30, most people begin to notice visible changes — like fine lines, skin thinning and loss of firmness.”

To make matters worse, as the collagen in our skin ages and becomes damaged, our body’s ability to create more collagen also declines.

“Collagen production naturally declines around 1% per year starting in your mid-20s,” said Dr. Mary Alice Mina, an Atlanta-based double-board-certified dermatologist. “Women can experience a 30% drop in collagen within five years after menopause.”

Not one to miss out on an opportunity, the skin care and wellness industries are here to provide everything from collagen powders, collagen pills and collagen gummies to collagen serums, masks and creams that promise to deliver the collagen you need to maintain age-defying skin.

But are any of these collagen products worth your time and hard-earned dollars? Or are there better solutions out there to protect and rebuild your collagen?

This is what our dermatology experts have to say about collagen products.

What Derms Think About Topical Skin Care That Contains Collagen

First of all, there are two different types of topical “collagen” skin care products: collagen-boosting products, and products that claim to contain collagen (usually a marine-based form).

Right now, we’re talking about skin care products that claim to contain collagen. But with this particular type of product, there’s just one problem.

“Traditional collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin barrier,” Mina said.

Kopelman explains that if collagen can’t penetrate the skin barrier, it won’t have much effect on the collagen levels in your skin.

That said, it doesn’t necessarily mean your favorite collagen cream is destined for the trash. While collagen skin care products won’t boost your collagen levels, it still may provide certain benefits to your skin.

“Topical collagen can still hydrate, smooth, and support the skin barrier,” says Mina, “but don’t expect it to replace your own collagen.”

What Derms Think About Collagen Supplements

While our experts will pass on topical collagen, their feelings on collagen supplements are a bit more complicated.

“There is some clinical data suggesting that hydrolyzed collagen peptides can improve skin hydration, elasticity and texture over time, especially when combined with vitamin C, zinc or hyaluronic acid,” Kopelman said.

But when it comes to choosing an effective product that is worth your time and money, Grewal is still hesitant to give these supplements the green light.

“[Collagen supplements] are widely available and generally well tolerated, but they’re not FDA-regulated, so the contents can vary,” Grewal said. “We still don’t know the optimal dose [for collagen] or how long the effects last.”

If you do decide to take a collagen supplement, it’s best to stay consistent and keep your expectations reasonable.

“Benefits [of collagen supplements] are subtle and gradual — don’t expect filler type results,” said Mina, who also notes that to be effective, supplements need to be taken daily.

Proven Collagen-Boosting Skin Care

While collagen supplements may potentially provide some long-term benefits in helping to maintain collagen levels, our experts stress that these supplements shouldn’t be your first (or only) method in boosting and protecting your collagen.

“Some people enjoy using [collagen supplements], and that’s fine — as long as expectations are realistic,” says Grewal. “I see them more as an optional adjunct, not a first-line strategy.”

Instead, experts recommend the following collagen-boosting skin care products and ingredients (note: they don’t claim to contain collagen), which have a greater impact.

Sunscreen

If you want to maintain your collagen well into your golden years, it’s important to not only replace lost collagen but also protect the collagen you already have, as well.

According to Mina, the biggest culprit for accelerated collagen loss is UV exposure. That’s one of the several reasons why dermatologists are so adamant about regular sunscreen use (plus, sunscreen also helps to prevent skin cancer— so that’s nice).

“If you only have time for one product, use a broad-spectrum, mineral-tinted SPF 30 or higher sunscreen every day,” Grewal said.

Retinol

While collagen supplements might help to increase collagen, retinoids actually have a proven track record of boosting collagen.

“Prescription-strength versions have great data supporting their ability to stimulate collagen and smooth skin,” Grewal said.

If your skin has trouble tolerating a retinol prescription, Grewal says over-the-counter retinoids are another great option.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is another skin care ingredient that’s well-loved by dermatologists. As Kopelman explains, this antioxidant helps to protect and build collagen.

To supercharge this antioxidant powerhouse, Grewal suggests looking for a vitamin C serum with vitamin E and ferulic acid to use in the morning to help protect your skin (and collagen) against environmental damage throughout the day.

Lifestyle Factors

While sunscreen, retinol, and vitamin C are the MVPs of helping to build and protect your collagen, be sure you aren’t undermining their efforts by engaging in counterproductive lifestyle habits.

“Several lifestyle factors can speed up that breakdown [of collagen] — sun exposure, smoking, high sugar intake, poor sleep and chronic stress are big culprits,” Kopelman said.

In addition to regular sunscreen use, Kopelman also recommends ensuring you’re following a well-balanced diet, staying hydrated, and managing your stress to help slow down the process of collagen loss.

In-Office Treatments

So you have all of the above recommendations covered, is it time to finally start incorporating that collagen supplement?

You could. But if you’re looking for the most effective, clinically-backed methods to rebuild your collagen, Grewal recommends, “Save your money for in-office treatments.”

“In the hands of the right laser surgeon, procedures like lasers and radiofrequency with microneedling can stimulate collagen and lead to real, visible results,” said Grewal, who recommends looking for a board-certified dermatologist with an advanced fellowship in laser surgery.

If You STILL Want To Try a Collagen Supplement, Here’s What To Look For

This is what experts recommend to find the most effective collagen supplement.

Hydrolyzed Peptides

After recovering from the sticker shock of some collagen supplements, it might be tempting to look to bone broth to meet your collagen needs. After all, collagen supplements, bone broth and gelatin all come from the connective tissues of animals, right?

While it is true that collagen is found in both gelatin and bone broth (which many cultures claim is their secret to staying youthful), Kopelman explains that the collagen content and bioavailability of collagen in bone broth and gelatin may vary.

That’s why our experts recommend looking for a supplement with hydrolyzed peptides — ensuring you’re getting the most bioavailable and consistent source of collagen (even if it may be more expensive).

Type I/III Collagen

There are at least 16 types of collagen in the human body. But when it comes to your skin, experts recommend looking for just two types of collagen: Type I and Type III collagen.

Many collagen supplements on the market contain type I and/or type III collagen, which tend to be sourced from either “bovine” or “marine” sources (meaning from cows and fish, respectively), leading to the great debate among many skin care forums: “Is bovine or marine collagen better?”

According to Kopelman, both sources can be effective, but there are slight differences between the two to keep in mind.

“Bovine collagen tends to be richer in types I and III collagen, which are great for skin, hair and nails,” Kopelman said. “Marine collagen is primarily type I and has slightly higher bioavailability.”

As marine collagen’s smaller peptides may be absorbed better by the body, supplements containing it tend to be pricier, Mina points out.

Don’t Forget Vitamin C

If you’re already dropping dough on a collagen supplement, you might as well make sure it’s as effective as possible.

Mina recommends looking for supplements that also contain vitamin C, which helps to support your body’s ability to build collagen.

Look For Third Party Testing

As supplements are excluded from FDA testing, our experts recommend looking for supplements with third-party testing to ensure that what you’re paying for is what you’re actually getting.

Avoid Collagen Supplements If…

You Need To Limit Protein

As collagen is a protein, taking a collagen supplement adds protein to your diet. If you’re on a protein-restricted diet or have had a history of kidney stones, Mina recommends consulting a medical professional before starting a collagen supplement.

You Need To Avoid Specific Animal Sources

Collagen supplements can be sourced from a variety of animal sources, such as shellfish, beef, fish or pork.

If you have any allergies or dietary restrictions, it’s best to carefully check your supplement or consult a medical professional before taking it.

You’re Vegan Or Vegetarian

Considering that collagen is made from the connective tissues of animals, most traditional collagen supplements are a no-go for vegans and vegetarians.

While there are “vegan collagen” supplements available on the market, thankfully for vegans and vegetarians, this term is mostly a misnomer.

“Most products labeled as ‘vegan collagen’ on the supplement market are not true collagen but rather blends of plant-derived amino acids, vitamins, and cofactors intended to support endogenous collagen synthesis,” Mina said. “So, the term ‘collagen booster or builder’ would be more appropriate.”

Mina also notes that the majority of studies on collagen supplementation focus on animal-derived collagen, so “vegan collagen” and “collagen booster” supplements lack clinical evidence to show they boost collagen.

Looking for a good retinol to boost your collagen? These come highly recommended.

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