Tastes of history: the best of Istanbul’s Ottoman palace restaurants
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s new guide to Istanbul
Istanbul isn’t simply a city — it’s a tapestry of empires, religions and civilisations, layered so densely that walking its streets can feel like crossing continents or centuries in a matter of minutes. It’s a place where the world has gathered, clashed, blended and endured. One way to fully experience this is by dining at one of the city’s celebrated Ottoman restaurants.
The kind of cooking that you will find in these cultural institutions harks back to an era when the city was the beating heart of an empire that ruled over much of the Balkans, the Caucasus and the Middle East. Ottoman restaurants are known for serving “palace cuisine” and for reviving dishes once served in the sultans’ courts, reimagined with a modern touch.
The tradition blends gastronomic delights from Turkish, Arabic, Persian, Mediterranean, south-east European and Caucasian cuisines. Expect dishes such as stuffed vine leaves (dolma), spiced lamb koftas, fragrant pilafs studded with nuts and dried fruit, silky yoghurt-based mezes, saffron-tinged stews and rosewater-infused desserts — all crafted with the delicate spicing and refinement once required for an emperor’s palate. You are also likely to be surprised by unexpected taste combinations, such as fruit like plums and grapes blended with meat and spices, or honey and vinegar — flavours from across the empire at its vastest.
While Ottoman cuisine is just a small niche in Istanbul’s thriving diverse food scene, these restaurants have long had a reputation for excellence — some have been around for decades and are widely regarded as cultural institutions. More of an opulent fine-dining experience than that of a traditional meze taverna, a meal at an Ottoman restaurant is often the choice for special occasions or celebratory meals for Istanbulites.
Here are some of the best examples that are still going strong.
Hacı Abdullah (Beyoğlu district)
Hüseyinağa, Atif Yilmaz Sok 9/A, 34435 Istanbul
Good for: Families with children
Not so good for: Gourmets who wants to avoid big groups
FYI: It does not serve alcohol. Portions are very generous, but you can always ask for half a serving
Prices: Mains, from about 1,400 Turkish lira (£25). Bear in mind that menu prices in Istanbul change frequently
Opening times: Daily, 11am-10.30pm
Hacı Abdullah has long been one of Istanbul’s pre-eminent Ottoman restaurants. It was founded in 1888, during the last years of the Ottoman Empire, and its operating licence was granted personally by Sultan Abdulhamid II.
Located just a short walk from bustling İstiklal Avenue and Taksim Square, Hacı Abdullah is spacious with a homely decor — deep-red walls, classic wooden furnishings and a formal-yet-friendly atmosphere.
Hacı Abdullah invites diners to choose their meal even before sitting down — freshly cooked dishes are displayed on a hot counter in the open kitchen. An enduring Ottoman speciality here is kuzu incik — lamb shank boiled in vegetable broth. Other dishes that have been cooked in Turkish homes for centuries include stuffed vine leaves (yaprak sarma) and dried aubergines (patlıcan dolması), Ottoman-era delicacies filled with aromatic rice, pine nuts, currants and herbs.
One Ottoman tradition to try here is compote, a concoction of various fruits in syrup. The quince and sour cherry compotes are wonderfully light, acting like sorbets or palate cleansers between dishes — eaten with a spoon as a chilled, delicate soup.
Hacı Abdullah is one of the few restaurants in the city frequented by both tourists and locals alike, a historic establishment in the very central district of Beyoğlu.
Deraliye (Sultanahmet)
Divanyolu Cad, Alemdar Mah Ticarethane Sk 10, 34122 Istanbul
Good for: Fine, almost excessive dining
Not so good for: Avoiding tourists
FYI: Deraliye also does Ottoman cookery classes
Prices: Mains from TL920 (£16/$22); classic “palace” dishes, about TL1,950 (£35/$47); Sultan’s tasting menu, TL4,125 (£74/$100)
Opening times: Daily, noon-11.30pm
Deraliye is a restaurant with a mission. Its executive chef, Necati Yılmaz, wants to breathe new life into the legacy of Ottoman cuisine, not just with the dishes served here but also by giving cooking classes.
Located in the touristy Sultanahmet district, Deraliye has been welcoming guests for 22 years, offering an interior reminiscent of a period drama, with red velvet chairs, ornate tiles and chandeliers. While the decor might seem a bit uncomfortably close to pastiche, the atmosphere is friendly.
If you’re more a fan of eateries that are off the beaten track, you might be put off by the Michelin Guide recommendations for this restaurant, its awards, its overwhelming online presence and its touristy facade.
Don’t be. Deraliye is all about fine dining Ottoman-style, with prices to match. It riffs on some of Turkish cuisine’s classics. For example, tarhana — a beloved Turkish soup made a mixture of dried yoghurt, flour, vegetables and spices — is given an unexpected twist with the addition of sour cherries. While cherries were often used in both sweet and savoury dishes in Ottoman cuisine, this was the first time I encountered them in a soup.
Then there’s the delicate taste of mutabal, a Middle Eastern roasted aubergine purée made with yoghurt, garlic and tahini. But the surprise dish for me was the melon stuffed with finely chopped beef, nuts and rice. It’s not a dish — it’s an experience. Also innovative is terkib-i mutancana — lamb shank with fruit and vinegar. It is like nothing you have tasted: pleasantly weird as contrasting flavours collide on your palate, each briefly overpowering the other in a surprising harmony.
To wash this all down, try the cold sherbet made from pomegranate flowers — a refreshing drink that, according to the waiters, is said to have been a favourite of Hürrem Sultan, or Roxelana, the wife of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, who ruled the Ottoman Empire at its height.
There may not be many Turks at Deraliye, since Sultanahmet — the old town that includes the Topkapı Palace and Ayasofya — is Istanbul’s main tourist district, so locals often keep away. But it’s definitely tasty enough to satisfy a Turkish palate — and probably even an Ottoman one, and the service is excellent.
Hünkar (Nişantaşı)
Mim Kemal Öke Cad 21, 34271 Istanbul
Good for: Ambience and quality
Not so good for: Fast and casual dining
FYI: Hünkar, which serves alcohol, becomes very busy after seven, so booking ahead is recommended — but the welcoming service continues until closing time
Prices: Mains about TL1,200 (£21/$29)
Opening times: Daily, 11.30am-11pm
Hünkar is situated in Nişantaşı, one of Istanbul’s most upscale neighbourhoods, known for its luxury shopping, stylish cafés and elegant residential streets.
Established in 1950, the restaurant built a loyal following by staying true to classic recipes, blending Ottoman culinary tradition with stylish, contemporary dining. The decor is understated yet elegant: crisp white tablecloths, warm lighting and traditional touches that nod to its heritage without feeling dated. Today, Hünkar attracts a sophisticated clientele, from locals and business professionals to visitors in search of authentic yet refined Turkish cuisine.
The restaurant offers around 30 to 35 dishes — most on display at the counter — using seasonal vegetables, meat and fish, and once you have chosen, they are brought to the table all at once.
A signature dish, hünkar beğendi (“Sultan’s delight”) — lamb slowly braised in a rich tomato sauce, served over a bed of smoky, roasted and mashed aubergine enriched with béchamel — is a rich, velvety classic of Ottoman palace cuisine that no one should miss, both for its deep flavour and historical pedigree. Another highlight is kuzu kesme, a delightfully meaty and delicately seasoned soup with chunks of lamb whose sour taste and thick texture go very well together. The finger-shaped saray köfte, (palace meatballs) are so tender and delicious they dissolve in your mouth. This dish is also one of the classics from the imperial kitchens.
A particular favourite of mine is the stuffed vine leaves with sour cherries — a cold dish that can be eaten before, after or during the main course. If you have room, a final must-try is şekerpare (“piece of sugar”), a traditional dessert made with semolina that breaks up into tiny, melt-in-your-mouth particles.
Pandeli (Eminönü)
Rüstempaşa Mah, Balık Pazarı kapısı Sokağı Mısırçarşı İçi 1 D2, 34110 Istanbul
Good for: Long lunches
Not so good for: Dinner — it closes at 6pm
FYI: It’s tucked away in the Spice Bazaar
Prices: Mains about TL950 (£17/$23)
Opening times: Monday-Saturday, noon-6pm
One of my favourite restaurants in Istanbul, Pandeli is a culinary landmark.
Hidden inside the Spice Bazaar in Eminönü, in old Istanbul, Pandeli has somehow managed to avoid becoming a typical tourist haunt. To find it, enter the bazaar through the main entrance facing the Galata Bridge; just to the left, you’ll see a discreet staircase leading upstairs. Above is a dining room of turquoise tiles and elegant charm — a refuge from the bustling market.
The restaurant opened in 1901, and its clientele has included Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, Queen Elizabeth II and Audrey Hepburn. Its cuisine, which emphasises seasonal ingredients, evokes Istanbul’s Belle Époque years, before the Turkish republic replaced the sultans in 1923.
To start with, go for one of the cold, slow-cooked vegetable dishes known as zeytinyağlılar — perhaps celery with quince or artichoke. Among the warm starters, I can’t emphasise enough how much you must try the pan-fried lamb’s liver — as delicious as it’s ethically questionable. If it’s late spring or early summer, don’t miss the baby courgettes and the courgette blossoms stuffed with curd cheese.
While there’s a wide range of classic main courses — from fish to grilled meat — the beautifully tender lamb kebabs with roasted aubergines (the Ottomans were real aubergine fans) were new even to me.
The food and the exquisite decor, with its above-mentioned blue tiles and tiny windows that look out to a view of the nearly 700-year-old Galata Tower across the Golden Horn, will make you want to visit again — as will the excellent service.
Do you have a favourite Ottoman palace restaurant in Istanbul? Contribute to our guide by sharing your recommendations in the comments below. And follow us on Instagram at @ftglobetrotter
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