An Inspector Calls: St James's

By The Inspector, Daily Mail

Last updated at 17:38 30 July 2007


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Dukes: Old-school London style with a new twist

To Dukes and a chance to see what Gordon Campbell Gray - of London's One Aldwych and Antigua's Carlisle Bay fame - has done to this venerable institution, tucked away off St James's St in Piccadilly.

I was here a couple of years ago, when it was under different ownership, and it was a depressing experience.

Then, it was full of lazy, faux English country-house trimmings, designed to appeal to gullible Americans who want to believe that we're still a polite society. It was over-priced and there was no restaurant.

And now? Well, it reminds me of a story told to me by an interior designer I once met. He was given the job of refurbishing White's, the grand gentleman's club across the road, in such a way that none of its members would notice the difference. The same can be said for here.

But while nothing much has changed on the surface, look a little closer and everything is different. And vastly improved. It's still expensive, but the ghastly green carpets have been replaced by wood and stone floors; rooms are kitted out with proper furniture rather than plywood covered in fabric; there are interesting prints and portraits on the walls; the drawing room has been completely overhauled and there's an attractive dining room in the basement, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The famous cocktail bar remains pretty much as it was - albeit without the clouds of cigar smoke hanging in the air - but the Zen-like terraced garden at the back of the building has been quietly transformed, replete with a soothing water feature and plenty of wicker chairs.

Our room was so easy on the eye that a weekend in town here would be a wonderful treat at any time of year. We were in the centre of London and yet I couldn't hear a thing. We might as well have been in Shropshire. Sleeping was easy and waking up in this sort of location does wonders for your imagination. And even if you don't stay here, it's a perfect breakfast spot if you want discretion along with your scrambled eggs.

Travel Facts

Dukes


35 St James's Place


London


SW1A 1NY


Tel: 020 7491 4840


www.dukeshotel.co.uk

Doubles from £225, excluding VAT; singles from £185, excluding VAT.

5/5

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