An Inspector Calls: Devon

Easton Court 'country house B&B' has had 11 owners in the past 28 years. The obvious conclusion to draw from such an alarming statistic is that there must be something wrong with the place - but I don't see it.

Certainly its history is distinguished: from the early 1940s to the mid-Sixties, Easton Court had the same, unruffled proprietor in the formidable form of Mrs Cobb, an American with literary connections who turned the hotel into one of the smartest and most respected in Devon.

Evelyn Waugh was introduced to Easton Court by his brother, Alex, and wrote much of Brideshead Revisited in the parlour. Patrick Leigh-Fermor was another guest. He worked on The Traveller's Tree while enjoying Mrs Cobb's famous hospitality.

'Guests always changed for dinner and I gather there was a very convivial atmosphere,' said Diana. And Diana, who is the housekeeper at Easton Court, should know because she has seen off all 11 owners - except the current ones, Paul and Debra Witting.

'I came here shortly after Mrs Cobb sold up and have been here ever since,' she said. 'It seems a long time if I stop to think about it.' Diana is one of several reasons why Easton Court is worth a visit. She is impeccably well-read and manages to find the perfect balance between efficient formality and homefrom-home friendliness.

She presides over a B&B that could so easily be called a hotel but for the Wittings' decision to stop serving any other meals apart from breakfast.

This didn't bother us in the slightest because we had spotted the Sandy Park Inn just off the A382 and it looked like the classic English country pub - but without any tourists.

The original part of Easton Court is a 15th-century thatched cottage, with an Edwardian add-on, where the guest rooms are reached via a fire escape pretending to be a set of metal outdoor stairs.

Paul showed us to our room and one of the first things I noticed was a brown teddybear clinging onto the television stand. This seemed just a little bit too twee - and I'm not entirely sure that Diana would have approved.

Generally, the room was unspectacular - although we liked the brass bedstead. There was a bath long enough to fit a giant and it looked as if the decorators had just been in to freshen up the paintwork.

There were good views of the four-acre garden from the window. In one corner, we saw what looked like a mini-Stonehenge and there's also a small lake, which presumably links up with the River Teign gorge.

There are only five rooms at Easton Court and I was pleased to read that dogs are made to feel welcome.

We are, of course, within Dartmoor National Park, which is a walker's paradise, and there are plenty of books and guides available in a room where guests can sit by the fire.

This room is also where Diana serves breakfast and it's quite a feast. You help yourself to coffee, juices and cereal while she busies herself in the kitchen. I ordered the 'souffle omelette', which kept me going for most of the day.

Because we had expressed an interest in the house's literary past, Diana asked us if, before leaving, we wanted to see where Waugh once worked.

Yes, please.

With its low ceiling and smoke-stained walls, we imagined the great man toiling in the heat, occasionally looking out at the huge chestnut tree in the garden.

Easton Court must have been a peaceful spot in the 1950s.

Thankfully - and in large part due to Diana's benign influence - it remains a peaceful spot today.

Travel Facts

Easton Court, Easton Cross, Chagford, Devon TQ13 8JL Tel: 01647 433469; www.easton.co.uk. Doubles from £45 B&B. ** (3/5)

Sorry we are not currently accepting comments on this article.