Going Dutch in the sun

Ever fancied eating iguana? You can tuck into the scaly reptiles and cuisine from across the world on the Caribbean island of Curacao.

Famed for a blue liqueur found at the back of drinks cabinets, this 40-mile by eight-mile rock with cacti and an oil refinery has several governments, four languages, a capital that looks like Amsterdam - and some tasty iguanas.

It is promoting itself as a holiday island, yet banking, oil refining and ship repairs are larger parts of the economy.

A long trek from the UK and nine hours from Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport, the capital, Willemstad (a World Heritage site), is Amsterdam transplanted, save that it's sun-kissed and so vibrantly painted it hurts the eyes.

Founded in 1634 by the Dutch, ships are piloted through the city's refinery and repair yards past this unique scene.

If you poke around you'll find a working synagogue that's nearly 250 years old, Plaza Bieu - an old market that serves food from four continents at Wagamamastyle tables - and a floating boat market where traders sell fish and fruit.

Plus, of course, you'll find more Dutch architecture, including several forts, one of which has a British cannonball stuck in the side of it, said to have been fired by Captain Bligh of The Bounty.

It's a bewildering mix, and not the tourist broth you might expect. The synagogue is a bright yellow building with dark pews and Grinling Gibbons-style woodwork.

Brass candelabras 10ft across hang from the ceiling as fans whirr in the hot air - and the floor is thick with white sand said to represent the sands of the Sinai.

Reptilian cuisine In Plaza Bieu's market-cum-cafe, delicacies such as curried goat (delicious), finchi (cooked cornmeal, very filling) and a gorgeous pumpkin pancake are served.

Local food shows strong Dutch influence and many dishes come gratineed. One special is keshy yena, a baked Edam or Gouda filled with chillies and tomatoes and either fish, shrimp, beef or chicken.

I tried iguana at Jaanchie's restaurant on the north of the island. Tasting like chicken, it's said to be an aphrodisiac. It sent me to sleep but that probably says more about me.

My stay on the island coincided with a drought. There are no rivers and water comes from a desalination plant.

Temperatures remain much the same throughout the year - 25°C upwards - but there's always a cooling easterly wind. In the north is a national park around the island's highest point, Christoffel Mountain.

At 375m it's not that high, but a round trip up and back - for great views and wildlife - takes three hours.

Divers and snorkellers love the island's sheltered western coast and some hotels, such as Habitat Dive Resort (www.habitatdiveresorts. com), cater just for them.

Splash out The affluent traveller could try the Kura Hulanda hotel (www.kurahulanda.com) in east Willemstad or designer hotel Floris Suite (www.florissuitehotel.com), which is reasonably priced and looks like a Conran catalogue.

Music lovers should try the Avila Beach Hotel, which has two wings jutting out into the sea and hosts jazz and blues bands on Thursdays and regularly flies in classical musicians.

• Pete flew with KLM (www.klm.com) and stayed at the Hilton (www.hilton.com). For tourist details log on to www.curacao-tourism.com

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