Sardinia continued

By Norman Miller, Evening Standard

Last updated at 14:05 26 March 2003


Elsewhere, ravishing 12th century Pisan churches are scattered throughout the interior (especially around Sassari); ancient walled towns such as Alghero bear the imprint of four centuries of Catalan rule, and little Spanish forts dot the coast every few miles.

The locals provide a neat distraction from just getting a tan, the public beaches offering entertaining vignettes of Sardinians at play - extended families from grandma down to the newest bambini clustered beneath bright umbrellas; Italian stallions in wraparound shades, prancing in the shallows; and bellissima babes in chic bikinis too busy gossiping and smoking to pay them much heed.

It must be the fags that keep them slim, since Sardinian food provides enough temptation to have you eating like a horse - as opposed to eating horse (cavallo appears on many menus).

Following the locals, I found such wonderful restaurants as Il Piatto d'Oro in Pula and, in the capital Cagliari, Lillicu and Deiddi (both on Via Sardegna, near the harbour), where my taste buds were bowled over by scabecciu - startling, vinegary red mullet served cold - and fried whitebait spiced with cumin, the dishes accompanied by Torbatto and other crisp local whites, or earthy-red Raim.

Cagliari's palaces and museums, steep hills and cobbled back streets also deserve exploration. Climb up to the Elephant Tower, an old Pisan fortification, where a wide terrace is perfect for a drink overlooking the city.

It was wonderful to head back to the beach for an early-evening swim, when the sands were quiet and spray hung gently in the warm air.

Yet I was always aware of the mountains, rising beyond the shore - high points in more ways than one.

Travel facts

Norman Miller travelled to Sardinia with Sardatur (tel: 020 7242 2455): seven-night packages at the Hotel Flamingo in the south of the island from £595pp, dinner B&B, with flights. Further information from the Italian State Tourist Board (tel: 020 7408 1254).

Most watched News videos

Sorry we are not currently accepting comments on this article.