Welcome to planet Dubai
By Jo Tweedy, Editor, TravelMail
The Palm, Dubai's luxury residential resort is now open
Dubai's Burj Al Arab hotel: seven stars and a waiting list to match...
Scroll down to add a comment on Jo's story...The Emirates city of Dubai has hardly drawn breath for a couple of decades, metamorphosing from a humble fishing village into a destination that lusts after audacious architecture in a way only a cash-happy developer in Vegas might. The indoor ski resort, seven-star hotel and world-beating shopping malls are already in place but there's the small matter of the earth's tallest building, and a scaled down replica of the world to come. Even so, in 2008, Dubai isn't far off being the ultimate holiday destination - in its own eyes, at least.As oil reserves dwindle, tourism is the new lifeblood and the hotels - shimmering, topped with helipads and as lavish as you'll find anywhere - are at the beating heart of it.Rising above the barren landscape, the futuristic skyline shimmers under the hot Arabian sun, glinting seductively. It isn't just the architecture that shines - Dubai's residents drive gleaming cars, wear diamonds and instantly make newcomers feel underdressed. The second most populous of the United Arab Emirates behind Abu Dhabi, Dubai sprang to life on the Creek, the inlet that carves the city in two. Today, much of the development focuses on Jumeirah Beach, the stretch of white sand overlooking the Arabian Gulf. Just six hours from the UK, heading to Dubai for a week-long sunshine pep-up is a jetlag-free experience. In summer, the UAE swelters at 40°c with 100% humidity. Between November and April, though, the brutal heat is replaced by a climate more like an early European summer.
It could be Klosters, well almost. Jo samples Ski Dubai
I'd convinced myself in the last few years that reclining on a lounger, book in hand, was akin to watching paint dry, but Dubai brought a change of heart. I was sedentary and serene for at least three hours each day, bathing in 25 degrees of breezy sunshine. Maybe it was Christmas-induced fatigue, or the realisation that there aren't many things to see in Dubai, and I mean that in the kindest of ways. The pressure to sightsee can scupper a day by the pool, but Dubai's attractions are all man-made and are, more importantly, open late.For a glimpse of what was here before the JCBs arrived, head for the desert. For around 300 Dirhams (£40), a four-wheel drive will pick you up from your hotel and take you on a driving tour - known as dune-bashing - followed by a traditional Emirati meal at a desert campsite. There's no escaping the majesty of the landscape as fleets of off-road vehicles spray sand in a skillful, choreographed display. Unfortunately, the demon driving was lost on me. Jilted every which way, it was only a matter of time before I stopped appreciating the surroundings and started pondering how one might be sick in a vehicle full of people that was travelling with more momentum than a ride at Alton Towers. We stopped eventually, and eventually, my green gills regained their colour.
The other attraction that tempted me from the pool couldn't be more different. Ski Dubai is an indoor winter sport complex in The Mall of the Emirates. It indulges Emiratis' fascination with something completely alien to them - snow.
Dune-bashing... a new take on green travel
The highly insulated structure produces 6,000 tonnes of perfect snow, and skiers will find a 450m slope with black, red and blue runs – all serviced by a chair lift - as well as a nursery slope for beginners and a toboggan run. Fir trees are dotted around the piste and perched at the top of the 'mountain' is an alpine café serving hot chocolate. On the other side of town, near Dubai Creek, is City Centre Mall, which is dubbed the 'people's mall', presumably because the locals eschew the designer-hungry tourists at The Mall of the Emirates in favour of a more down to earth shopping experience.
Pick up some of Dubai's famous yellow gold in the souks
Elsewhere, billboards herald increasingly bold projects - a Formula 1-themed attraction will open in 2009 and Dubailand, a £3billion theme park, promises to eclipse Disneyland. For the headiest example of the 'build it and they will come' attitude, look to the Arabian Gulf. Parts of The Palm development are now opened, with keys having been dispatched to the world's glitterati. The QE2 will also soon be permanently moored here as a floating hotel. Nearby, an even more ambitious project is underway - The World, a collection of islands modelled on the global map. Rumour has it Rod Stewart is interested in owning England - a snip at £20 million. On dry land, the soon-to-be world's tallest tower - Burj Dubai - is adding a dizzying new floor every week. Your choice of hotel means much more here than it might elsewhere. They are home to the trendiest bars and best restaurants (Gordon Ramsay and Gary Rhodes are among the top chefs to have opened here). Tour guides point them out with an enthusiasm usually reserved for ancient monuments.
Dominating the horizon on Jumeriah Beach is the much-lauded seven-star Burj al Arab hotel. What you get for your seven stars, I didn't find out. Reservations for Christmas drinks were required weeks in advance. However, from the outside at least, this opulent sail-shaped hotel looked like it might deserve the headlines, if not the $1,000 a night price tag. Dubai's glamour is infectious. Dressing for an evening out, you'll soon find yourself reaching for the piece of jewellery that sparkles the most. Emirati women sport exquisitely painted faces and diamante trims on traditional clothes while well-groomed westerners - 80 per cent of Dubai's inhabitants are ex-pats - prop Prada sunglasses on their heads and team smart shirts with Armani jeans.If you're intent on learning more about Middle Eastern culture, then this isn't the place for you. Distracted by the financial rewards of becoming a universal destination, Dubai has shrugged off any exoticism it may once have had.
It could be Klosters, well almost. Jo samples Ski Dubai
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