Going for gold leaf

The Americans call it 'Fall Colors'. Never mind the mis-spelling: it's the season between mid-September and the end of October when the leaves on the oaks, maples, birches and elms in New England turn a kaleidoscope of yellows, reds and oranges.

It's a big deal in America, and hundreds of thousands of 'leaf-peepers' - as they're known - come from all over the country to see the spectacular display of autumn foliage.

Obviously we have autumn here, too, but we have nothing that really compares with New England's vast panoply of forested hills and rolling woodland. We also don't have the variety of trees that gives the region's foliage such a rich palette.

Other states promote their own Fall Colors, but the New England region's is the biggest and best. Its popularity does, however, have a downside. During foliage season, it can be difficult to find accommodation, so booking ahead is essential.

In addition, some country inns and hotels in the most popular foliage areas may require a two or three-night minimum stay. And on weekends, traffic on the well-known routes through the woods and forests can sometimes be bumper to bumper.

Leaf-peeping can be an indolently American experience: some visitors simply drive out to the countryside and view the spectacle from their cars, never getting out except to pick up another order of tripleburgers and fries.

The more adventurous, however, park their cars and go for a hike or get on their bikes. There are hundreds of walking trails in national and state parks, state forests and reservations. Bicycle touring is easy on the thousands of miles of back roads that wander through woodland, well-maintained villages and red-brick colonial towns.

The leaf-peeping season typically begins in the higher elevations and in the north of New England in mid-September before it moves south through October.

It reaches the coastal areas of the region at the end of October. The peak of the foliage season, when the colours are at their brightest and best, lasts a matter of days.

Depending on the region, and even the year, the timing of the peaks varies. Each state operates Autumn Foliage Hotlines to tell you when and where to go.

Some manic leaf-peepers are determined to see the peaks and, like twitchers chasing a rare bird, will drive from state to state in search of the perfect foliage display.

The rest of us probably don't need to be quite so enthusiastic: the colours are spectacular whenever you see them. There are many organised coach tours and some train tours. One company runs combined railway/coach tours that depart from Boston and take in all six New England states.

But probably the best way to enjoy the Fall Colors is to hire a car. New England has an excellent network of roads and is small enough to get about comfortably in a week. And because it is an historic region, there is much more to see than just leaves.

From hamlets with white clapboard churches on village greens to covered wooden bridges, New England is the most quintessentially 'American' region in the country.

It has picture-perfect villages such as Stockbridge, Massachusetts, whaling ports such as Mystic, Connecticut, and mill towns such as Lowell, also in Massachusetts.

The region's metropolis is Boston, the most civilised city in the country. During the 19th century it was called 'the Athens of America' because of its large population of literati, artists and educators.

With 60 colleges aand universities in the greater Boston area, the city offers a rich variety of cultural activities and a vibrant nightlife.

Most important, Boston is a compact city. Just 30 minutes from the city centre are fields, gardens, colonial towns and, of course, all those leaves.

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