Beyond the Verona arena
By Lee Marshall, Evening Standard
Last updated at 16:37 02 August 2002
Luxury B&B
in a medieval palazzo: Domus Nova (tel: 00 39 045 801 5245), piazza dei Signori 45, double room €180.
Three guest rooms more like suites, lashings of antique furniture.
Faded nobility at Villa Bogoni (tel: 00 39 045 737 0129), via Vittorio Veneto 19a, double room €103.
Salons and bedrooms are covered in frescoes by that exuberant mannerist, Giluio Romano, in this six-room hotel in the village of Sorgà 15 miles south.
Full-on dining at Tre Marchetti (tel: 00 39 45 803 0463), vicolo Tre Marchetti 19b, which stays open well after the fat lady has stopped singing. Founded in 1291.
Pastissada de caval, a kind of horsemeat stew, bigoli in salsa (hand-rolled spaghetti in anchovy sauce) and braised rabbit.
Around €110 for two with a decent bottle of wine.
Low-key towns of Lake Garda's western shore. Lively and family oriented Salò - lakeside promenade and art nouveau palazzi.
Gardone Riviera, where the grand hotels cluster, for cocooning couples.
Skip lemon-growing Limone, which has sold its soul to tourism, stop off at Gargnone, where a tiny, but remarkable restaurant, Tortuga (tel: 00 39 0365 71251, closed Tues), via XXIV Maggio 3, provides what is probably the best eating experience on Garda - legendary home-made spaghetti served with a sauce of lake fish.
Three courses around €150 for two with wine.
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