Reykjavik Destination Guide

Reykjavik is the world's northernmost capital city

Introduction

In just twenty years, Reykjavik has evolved from a rustic fishing town with a dubious climate and a preponderance of fish into a major tourist hotspot. Today the Icelandic capital is one of northern Europe's most stylish cities and home to a vibrant arts and music scene.

The world's most northerly capital still retains its low-fi charms and, with a population of around 170,000 and a small downtown area, it is easily explored on foot.

While a few main sights feature on the itineraries of the hundred or so UK tour operators offering trips to Iceland, the two biggest draws are the nightlife and the chance to strike out into the countryside and explore the natural splendour of this extraordinary country.

The monolithic cathedral casts an imposing shadow on the rest of the city

Sightseeing

The major new attraction in Reykjavik is The Settlement Museum, containing the ruins of a 10th century longhouse and artefacts dating from around 871AD. The museum uses multimedia technology to show life as it was lived by the city's earliest inhabitants.

Otherwise, the Reykjavik Museum of Photography and the ASI Art Museum (which exhibits some of Iceland's best paintings) are popular diversions on a cold day.

Best of all, however, is the array of thermal pools dotted around the city, where locals go to soak away their stress. These glorious communal pools offer swimming, soaking and some have massage treatments. If you've purchased a Reykjavik Tourist Card, entry to the pools is free.

Stage shows thrive in the city's two major professional theatre companies

Shopping

The big seller for souvenirs with a touch of Icelandic chic comes courtesy of The Blue Lagoon, the spa resort located just outside Reykjavik. The branded range of beauty products includes face scrubs and volcanic mud face packs. Icelandic knitwear is another favourite purchase, although not cheap.

Cool-hunters will love the designer boutiques around the old harbour district for contemporary art and fashion designs, while locals gather each Sunday at the downtown flea market to rummage for bargains.

Eating

Iceland has traditionally served some of the world's most bizarre cuisine with fish balls and sheep heads (complete with eyes and brains) available in supermarkets. Roasted puffin is a popular main course at local restaurants.

In recent years, Reykjavik's dining scene has boomed with restaurants such as Siggi Hall at Odinsveum putting an international spin on domestic favourites.

Eating and drinking around town is not cheap, however. The way to eat well without breaking the bank is to rely on the set-menu lunches served at most restaurants. These generally offer a hearty bowl of soup and a main course for a fixed price of around 1,200K (£9).

Fans of Icelandic beer will love March 1, a day set aside to celebrate the lifting, in 1989, of Iceland's 75-year prohibition of beer. The event is now marked by a day of revelry known locally as 'Beer Day'.

Traditionally a rustic fishing village, Reykjavik has shed that image and replaced it with a far more cosmopolitan one

After dark

Each weekend, thousands of locals and tourists crowd bars such as Kaffibarinn, co-owned by British musician Damon Albarn, to revel in the city's ebullient nightlife.

Reykjavik's bright young things take their nights out seriously, not heading out until midnight and partying until morning. No big night out is complete without a hotdog for the journey home.

Iceland has spawned some of the world's most original, atmospheric and, at times, downright weird music. From Eighties band The Sugarcubes, to contemporary names such as Sigur Ros, its music sounds like nothing else on earth.

Reykjavik venues such as Nasa, Pravda and Gaukurinn are the places to catch local bands and DJs.

Iceland Airwaves, held annually in October, is a showcase event for new local talent, while Rite of Spring is a new festival featuring jazz and world music.

Day trips

Whale watching is the most popular excursion from Reykjavik – head to the harbour to join a boat tour. The Icelandic waters are home to more than 20 different species, with the various currents and light during the summer months providing them with ideal conditions.

The whale season starts in May and lasts until September, although the chance of seeing whales depends on the conditions of the day.

The other top day trip is to the now world-famous Blue Lagoon thermal spa. This spa and treatment centre has an atmospheric outdoor pool for soaking while the range of silica mud treatments soothe all manner of skin conditions.

Getting there, getting around

Keflavik International Airport is located 30 miles from downtown Reykjavik and is well served by regular airport bus connections.

Much of the centre is walkable but taxis are necessary, though expensive, to get to outlying hotels late at night. Otherwise, pick up a three-day Reykjavik Tourist Card, valid across the easy-to-use bus network. This also entitles you to free admission to many of the city's attractions.

For inter-city travel, comfortable long-distance buses ply well-defined inter-city routes.

Etiquette

Iceland is a progressive, open-minded country but people can come across as a little aloof – respect their distance and you'll be fine.

Otherwise, beware of conflict around late-night bars. Icelanders like to drink and tempers can sometimes flare after too many shots of the local Brennavin schnapps.