Eight Middle Eastern recipes that are made for sharing

By JAMES WALTERS FOR YOU MAGAZINE

Published: | Updated:

SMASHED CUCUMBER CACIK

You can whip up a plate of this Turkish classic (pronounced ‘jahjook’) in less than 10 minutes. My delicious, chunky, cucumber-heavy variation shares its roots with favourites from across the Mediterranean and Middle East, such as Balkan tarator, Greek tzatziki or Iranian mast-o-khiar. The secret to its lusciousness? A good-quality, full-fat, thick, strained yogurt – choose an authentic Greek yogurt with approximately ten per cent fat.

SERVES 4

  • 3 Persian cucumbers (if not available, two-thirds of an English cucumber will work as well)
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
  • 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 2 tsp Turkish dried mint (available at arabicalondon.com)
  • ½ tsp nigella seeds, plus a pinch to garnish
  • 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
  • 15g fresh dill, chopped (reserve a few fronds for garnish)
  • generous pinch of freshly milled black pepper
  • 1 tsp Maldon sea salt
  • 250g Greek yogurt

1 Place the cucumbers on a cutting board and smash them using a cleaver, the back of a frying pan or a rolling pin. This creates a mix of chunky and smooth textures, enhancing the cacik’s crunchiness, while the finer pieces soak up the vinegar and garlic. Roughly chop the smashed cucumbers into 1cm slices.

2 Combine the smashed cucumbers with the remaining ingredients except the yogurt. Mix well and let them macerate for a few minutes.

3 Once macerated, gently fold three-quarters of the cucumber mixture into the yogurt.

4 Spoon the cacik into a serving dish and garnish with the remaining macerated cucumber, a drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of nigella seeds and a few extra dill fronds. Serve with pita pockets (recipe below).

 

PITA POCKETS 

Soft, pillowy and versatile – these are perfect for tearing, sharing or filling.

MAKES 10

  • 500g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting
  • 10g fine sea salt
  • 1½ tsp dry active yeast
  • 15g caster sugar
  • 330ml warm water (32C)
  • 20g extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing

1 Sift the flour and salt into a large mixing bowl and create a well in the centre. In a jug, combine the yeast, sugar and warm water. Allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes until frothy. If no frothing occurs, the yeast may be inactive; discard it and start again.

2 Pour the yeast mixture and the olive oil into the seasoned flour. Combine until it looks like a shaggy mess, then leave for a few minutes for the flour to hydrate.

3 Transfer the dough to a clean surface and knead for 6-8 minutes by hand or use a stand mixer on low-medium speed until it becomes smooth, shiny and slightly tacky, with a consistency that springs back when pressed.

4 Shape the dough into a smooth ball using your hands. Grease a clean bowl with a tablespoon of olive oil. Roll the ball in the bowl to coat evenly in the oil. Cover it with clingfilm and a tea towel and leave it to prove for 2 hours, or until doubled in size. (Or refrigerate overnight for a slower fermentation. Remove the dough from the fridge for a couple of hours before use.)

5 Gently knead the dough for a minute, then divide into 10 pieces, each weighing about 80g. Shape them into balls, cover and leave them to prove for an hour. This helps the gluten strands relax, making the dough easier to handle and shape. Meanwhile cut parchment paper into 10 x 16cm squares for easy handling after shaping.

6 To shape the pita, work one dough ball at a time on a lightly floured work surface. Gently flatten the ball with your palms and, using a rolling pin, create a 14cm diameter circle. Lift the dough frequently to prevent it sticking, being careful not to overwork it. If it starts to stick, sprinkle the surface with a little extra flour. Place each pita on a piece of parchment paper, cover loosely with a damp tea towel and leave to rest for 30 minutes.

7 Place a baking sheet, cast-iron skillet or pizza stone in the cold oven to prevent cracking, then preheat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9 (or as high as it will go). Slide a pita and its parchment paper into the oven using a chopping board or pizza peel. Bake in the preheated oven for 4-5 minutes for soft and pliable, fluffy pita, ideal for stuffing or toasting. Extend the baking time to 5-6 minutes for a crisper, light brown pita, for immediate tearing and dipping. Wrap the pita in a clean tea towel to retain warmth while you continue baking the rest.

TIP These are best enjoyed on the day they are made. For extended storage, keep them in an airtight container at room temperature for 1-2 days, or freeze for up to 3 months. Thaw and refresh by misting with water before reheating to serve.

 

AUBERGINE MOUTABEL 

Moutabel, aptly translating to ‘mashed’, never ceases to intrigue newcomers who witness the captivating charring process that transforms aubergine into this culinary marvel. Once the aubergine skins wear the badge of blackened honour and the smoky pulp within has softened and collapsed, the rest is a breeze.

SERVES 4

  • 2 large aubergines (about 700g)
  • 5 tbsp tahini
  • juice of ¾ lemon
  • 1 garlic clove, finely minced
  • 25g flat-leaf parsley, leaves finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • pinch of freshly milled black pepper
  • 1 tsp Maldon sea salt

To serve

  • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tbsp pomegranate seeds

1 Char the aubergines: preheat the grill to its highest setting. Prick the aubergines a couple of times with a sharp knife (this will allow steam to escape during cooking and prevent them from exploding).

2 Position the aubergines approximately 5cm below the grill elements and start to blacken them. Turn the aubergines regularly until the skin is fully charred, and they are soft to touch and collapsing. (This can also be done over the hot coals of a barbecue or over a gas hob.)

3 Transfer the aubergines to a rimmed dish to collect the smoky resting juices and set aside to cool for 30 minutes.

4 When the aubergines are cool enough to handle, slit them lengthwise and scoop out the flesh into a bowl. Make sure you get all the pulp, even the part closest to the charred skin, and gently mash the flesh with a fork until chunky.

5 In a tall beaker, blend the smoky resting juices, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, half the parsley, the olive oil, black pepper, salt and 5 tablespoons of water with a stick blender until green and velvety. Add the tahini mixture and the remaining flat-leaf parsley to the mashed aubergine and fold everything together.

6 Spoon the moutabel on to a small plate, drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds to serve.

 

HUMMUS WITH SPICED LAMB & PINE NUTS 

Lamb stands as one of the ubiquitous hummus toppings across the Arab world. Picture spots like the extraordinary Al Soussi, one of Beirut’s most historic restaurants, where you can find an array of options, from lamb’s liver to slivers of neck fillet or sweetbreads. This recipe remains a steadfast favourite.

SERVES 4

For the hummus

  • 240g cooked chickpeas (I like jarred ones by El Navarrico, Perelló or Bold Bean Co)
  • 1 garlic clove
  • juice of ½ lemon
  • 1½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • ½ tsp Maldon sea salt
  • 2 tbsp ice-cold water
  • 60g tahini

For the spiced lamb topping

  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 20g butter or ghee
  • 20g pine nuts
  • ½ onion, finely diced
  • 150g minced lamb
  • ¼ red pepper, finely diced
  • ½ mild green chilli, finely diced
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • ½ tsp Lebanese 7-spice (available from ocado.com)
  • ¼ tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp Maldon sea salt
  • juice of ¼ lemon
  • 10g flat-leaf parsley, leaves finely chopped
  • pinch of pul biber (available from ocado.com)
  • pinch of sumac

1 Make the hummus: combine the chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and water in a food processor or tall beaker (if using a stick blender). Blend on high speed until you achieve a silky-smooth texture. Add the tahini and blend for an additional minute until thoroughly incorporated. To get a thinner consistency, add an extra tablespoon of ice-cold water.

2 For the spiced lamb, start by heating the olive oil and butter in a large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Add the pine nuts and swirl the pan to ensure even toasting until they turn light golden brown. Remove the pine nuts with a slotted spoon and set them aside.

3 Add the diced onion to the pan and sweat for 5 minutes until it softens. Increase the heat to high and add the minced lamb, stirring constantly to break up any clumps and prevent the onions from catching. Fry the lamb for 3-4 minutes, until it is brown and the edges crisp up.

4 Stir in the finely diced red pepper, mild green chilli, minced garlic, Lebanese 7-spice, smoked paprika and salt, and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Squeeze in the lemon juice and stir in half the chopped parsley.

5 Spoon the hummus on to a large plate, top with the spiced lamb and the cooking juices. Scatter over the toasted pine nuts, the remaining chopped parsley and the pinches of pul biber and sumac.

 

MUHAMMARA 

A vibrant Levantine-style romesco hailing from Aleppo, Syria, that combines sweet, smoky peppers, toasted walnuts and tangy pomegranate molasses with a hint of spice. Traditionally savoured as a rich dip, it also excels as a condiment when thinned with a few tablespoons of water. Ideal for spooning over roasted vegetables, chicken thighs, grilled prawns, lamb chops or roasted scallops.

SERVES 4

  • 200g walnuts
  • 3 red peppers
  • 40g harissa
  • 40g tomato purée
  • 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses
  • 2 tsp Maldon sea salt
  • pinch of Urfa chilli flakes (available from ocado.com)

1 Preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4. Spread the walnuts on a baking tray in a single layer and toast lightly in the preheated oven for 8 minutes.

2 Preheat the grill to its hottest setting. Blacken the peppers approximately 5cm below the grill. Turn them regularly until the skin is fully charred and starting to collapse. Transfer the peppers to a bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave to sit for 20 minutes until cool enough to handle. Peel away the skin and discard the stem, seeds and white membrane.

3 Combine the roasted peppers with the harissa, tomato purée, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 1 tablespoon of the pomegranate molasses and the salt in a tall beaker. Reserve a tablespoon of the walnuts to garnish and add the remaining nuts to the beaker. Blend to a fine purée using a stick blender.

4 Spoon the dip into a shallow bowl. Use the back of a spoon to create a textured pattern. Drizzle the remaining olive oil and pomegranate molasses over the top. Finely chop the reserved walnuts, retaining some coarser chunks for crunch, then sprinkle them over the muhammara with the Urfa chilli flakes, and serve at room temperature.

TIP Muhammara improves with time and will keep for up to 5 days in the fridge. Just remember to take it out an hour before serving to allow it to reach room temperature.

 

WHIPPED SWEETCORN, TOASTED CORN RELISH & ZA’ATAR 

Savour this delight during late summer with fresh sweetcorn or year-round with frozen sweetcorn. And don’t let any of that toasted sweetcorn relish go to waste. It’s delicious spooned over a well-seasoned, buttery baked potato with a dollop of Greek yogurt, a grilled sole or a juicy pork chop.

SERVES 4

For the whipped sweetcorn

  • 300g sweetcorn kernels
  • 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp Maldon sea salt

For the toasted corn relish

  • 100g sweetcorn kernels
  • 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 spring onion, finely sliced
  • 1 tsp red chilli, deseeded and finely diced
  • ½ tsp pul biber (available from ocado.com)
  • ¼ tsp smoked paprika
  • ½ tsp Maldon sea salt

To serve

  • 2 tsp za’atar

1 To make the whipped sweetcorn, bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Add the sweetcorn kernels and cook for 2 minutes, then drain. In a tall beaker, combine the cooked sweetcorn, olive oil, 4 tablespoons water and the salt. Using a stick blender, blend on full speed for 3-4 minutes until you achieve a finely puréed emulsion.

2 Make the relish. Place a frying pan over medium heat. When it is hot, add the sweetcorn kernels and toast gently, swirling the pan from time to time to ensure an even colour. Remove the sweetcorn when the kernels begin to develop charred edges and start hopping around.

3 Transfer the hot sweetcorn to a small mixing bowl and add the olive oil and vinegar. Set aside to cool for a few minutes. Add the spring onion, red chilli, pul biber, smoked paprika and salt, then give it a good stir.

4 Warm the whipped sweetcorn in a saucepan over a medium heat. Spoon it into a shallow bowl, top with the toasted corn relish and sprinkle with the za’atar.

 

LABNEH WITH TURKISH CHILLI BUTTER

Whether you choose to make your own labneh from scratch following our separate recipe or opt for high-quality store-bought, elevate it with this Turkish chilli butter.

SERVES 4

  • 300g labneh (see recipe below)

For the Turkish chilli butter

  • 1 mild fresh red chilli
  • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 45g unsalted butter
  • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • ½ tsp pul biber, also known as Aleppo pepper
  • Pinch of smoked sweet paprika
  • ½ tsp Maldon sea salt

Finishing touches

  • 2 pickled chillies, thinly sliced
  • Big pinch of Urfa chilli flakes

1 Cut the red chilli into 3-4 irregular-sized pieces. Place in a small saucepan with the garlic and butter over a low-medium heat. Melt the butter and bring it to a simmer, then reduce the heat, ensuring it barely bubbles, until the chillies and garlic are tender. Add the pul biber, smoked paprika and salt, and remove from the heat to cool for a few minutes.

2 Spoon the labneh into a shallow bowl or plate, creating a well in the centre with the back of the spoon. Pour the warm chilli garlic butter into the well and garnish with pickled chillies and a generous pinch of Urfa chilli flakes.

TIP The garlic chilli butter can be made ahead of time. After cooking, transfer it to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 3 months.

 

LABNEH

A Middle Eastern-style cream cheese crafted from strained full-fat yogurt with minimal effort. The choice of milk plays a crucial role – sheep’s milk yogurt adds a tangy flavour, while cow’s milk contributes a creamier texture. For the perfect balance, I recommend combining both. Enjoy it plain or with a sprinkle of za’atar, a touch of harissa, or alongside your favourite medley of marinated roasted vegetables.

MAKES 450g

  • 450g full-fat natural sheep’s milk yogurt
  • 450g full-fat natural cow’s milk yogurt
  • 1½ tbsp Maldon sea salt

1 You’ll need cheesecloth or muslin. If you don’t have them, a clean tea towel or a new J-cloth will work too. Sterilise them by boiling in water for about 5 minutes, then cool and squeeze out the excess water.

2 In a bowl, thoroughly mix the yogurts and salt. Line a colander with the sterilised cloth, ensuring it hangs over the sides, and place it over a deep bowl, which will provide ample space to collect the whey.

3 Transfer the yogurt to the centre of the cloth, folding the overhang of the cloth over the top to completely cover it. Place a heavy weight on top of the cloth. Place in the fridge for up to 24 hours, or at least overnight for a scoopable dip. The longer you strain the yogurt, the thicker your labneh will be. If the labneh is thicker than your preferred consistency, you can easily adjust it by gradually stirring in the collected whey, a tablespoon at a time. This allows you to customise the texture to your liking. The labneh should be smooth and tangy, with a similar consistency to cream cheese.

TIP Keep the labneh in an airtight jar or container in the fridge for up to 5 days. Seal it with a thin layer of olive oil to preserve its freshness.

 

TARAMASALATA

Forget bright pink imitations, seek out lightly smoked cod’s roe and try this fluffy, peachy-coloured rendition. In the restaurant, we garnish this with sweet, pickled cucumbers, fresh dill and Tobiko flying fish roe for an indulgent crunch. But a plate of crunchy breakfast radishes, a stack of piping hot pita breads and a crisp, unoaked Chardonnay or a sparkling Txakoli would be a delightful alternative at any summer social.

SERVES 4

  • 250g smoked cod’s roe
  • 10g soft, white, crustless bread
  • 10g white onion
  • Juice of ½ lemon
  • 160g grapeseed oil
  • 25g extra-virgin olive oil
  • 75g water
  • ½ tsp Maldon sea salt

For the sweet pickled cucumbers

  • 55g white wine vinegar
  • 30g caster sugar
  • ⅓ cucumber, peeled, deseeded and diced

Finishing touches

  • 1 tsp olive oil
  • Fresh dill fronds
  • 1 tbsp tobiko flying fish roe (optional)

1 Make the sweet pickled cucumber. Place vinegar, sugar and 55g water in a heavy saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 1 minute until the sugar dissolves. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let the pickling liquid cool. Add the diced cucumber to the cooled liquid and let it pickle for a minimum of 30 minutes, while you prepare the taramasalata. For a firmer bite, I recommend making these on the same day.

2 Blend the taramasalata: cut through the skin of the roe lobe, to remove the soft roe inside. In a tall beaker (if using a stick blender) or the bowl of your food processor, combine the bread, cod’s roe, onion and lemon juice. Blend the ingredients to a fine purée with a smooth consistency.

3 In a small jug, combine the oils. With the motor running, gradually drizzle in a third of the oils, followed by a third of the water. Repeat this process until all the liquids are incorporated, resulting in a light and fluffy emulsion. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover with clingfilm and refrigerate until needed.

4 Spoon the taramasalata into a serving bowl, drizzle with a little olive oil and garnish with cubes of pickled cucumber, dill fronds and a heaped spoonful of tobiko flying fish roe, if you’re feeling indulgent.

TIP Taramasalata keeps for up to 5 days in the fridge. Smoked cod’s roe is available from fishmongers or from moxonsfreshfish.com.

 

 

Now buy the book

Our recipes are from Arabica by James Walters, with photographs by Joe Woodhouse (Carnival, £28). To order a copy for £23.80 until 25 May, go to mailshop.co.uk/books or call 020 3176 2937. Free UK delivery on orders over £25.

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