Photo/Illutration Chizuko Kimura, the first Michelin-starred female sushi chef in the French edition of the Michelin Guide ((c) 11h45)

PARIS--A sushi chef for only a few years, Chizuko Kimura became so adept at the craft that her restaurant here won a Michelin star.

She had a huge motivation to make culinary history: a promise she made to her dying husband.

Sushi Shunei, a small restaurant with a counter that seats nine, is located along a quiet street on the Montmartre hill in northern Paris. It becomes full every day as soon as it opens at 7 p.m.

Dressed in a white garment, Kimura, 55, welcomes customers from the “tsukeba” kitchen workstation, where she prepares authentic Edomae sushi, or Tokyo-style sushi cuisine.

The restaurant was opened by her husband, Shunei, whom she married in 2005.

Fascinated by France, he moved to the country in the 1980s and learned cooking skills in several restaurants. He became a sushi chef and decided to open his own place in 2020.

After his plans were delayed because of the COVID-19 pandemic, he realized his dream in 2021 of opening an Edomae sushi restaurant named after himself in the City of Lights.

It was an immediate success, and Sushi Shunei was awarded a star from the Michelin Guide the following year.

Kimura, who loves religions, arts and cultures of foreign countries, had been working as a tour guide for many years.

She took a hiatus from her work during the pandemic but intended to resume her career when her husband’s restaurant opened.

However, she devoted herself to helping Shunei prepare food at Sushi Shunei.

HIDDEN ILLNESS

Shunei had been diagnosed with liver cancer in 2015, but he continued working without telling others about his illness.

The side effects of anti-cancer drugs prevented him from moving his hands smoothly, so Kimura filleted the fish at his direction.

Although he was always cheerful, Shunei would search the internet for information about the life expectancy of cancer patients.

He kept telling his wife not to worry because he was sure he would recover from his sickness.

Kimura believed in his reassuring words.

But he died at age 65 in June 2022, about three months after his restaurant won the Michelin star.

Before her husband’s death, she made a promise to him to keep the restaurant running.

She was further inspired to keep his legacy going after learning Shunei had continued to work until he reached his physical limit.

Kimura received help from Shunei’s sushi chef acquaintances and learned sushi-making skills from scratch. She also worked at other eateries on her off days for further training.

Her skills to prepare fish, cook rice, mold sushi and perform other culinary tasks improved day to day.

But Sushi Shunei lost the star in 2023.

Despite feeling frustrated, Kimura continued her efforts to reach perfection.

In late March, three years after her husband’s death, Kimura became the world’s first Michelin-starred female sushi chef in the 120-year history of the bible of gastronomy.

STAR RECOVERED

In awarding Sushi Shunei the star, the French edition of the Michelin Guide said the restaurant takes “the diner on a genuine sensorial experience courtesy of razor-sharp nigiris, a truly exceptional selection of fish, expert handiwork and a range of subtle seasonings.”

Kimura attended the ceremony unveiling the latest Michelin Guide held in Metz in eastern France in late March.

When Sushi Shunei was officially awarded the star at the ceremony, Kimura took the stage.

She said she thought she finally recovered her husband’s star and that she could make a fresh start. She also expressed her great appreciation to the staff members at Sushi Shunei.

Kimura said she can still feel Shunei’s presence when she stands in the tsukeba.

Although there is no end in learning sushi-making skills, she is sure she can keep going.

NEW GOALS

After the Michelin ceremony, a British couple showed up at Sushi Shunei.

They had only eaten there when Shunei was alive and said they would root for Kimura now that it is her turn to run the restaurant.

Sushi Shunei marked its fourth anniversary on June 9.
Kimura’s next goal is to outshine her husband, possibly with an additional Michelin star.

“I’m sure Shunei would be happy,” she said.

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