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THE VOSGES IN WINTER a snow-bound trek along the route des cretes THIS PAGE IS CURRENTLY UNDER MAINTENANCE DUE TO TECHNICAL PROBLEMS |
 Warning: the weather can change rapidly in the Vosges! St Die en Vosges calls itself the 'World Centre of Geography'. The main justification for this rather grand claim seems to be a 16th century publication originating from the town which first referred to the New World as 'America'. World Centre of Geography or not, St Die is set against the stunning backdrop of the Vosges Mountains, where the trenches run across the dramatic snow-covered peaks of Alsace via the Route des Cretes. From St Die, you can cross into Alsace by two means – the scenic ascent over the Col du Bonhomme or the more direct route ‘par tunnel’ . The Bonhomme pass is the traditional gateway between Alsace and Lorraine and rises to a height of 949 metres. At the mountain-top crossroads there are one or two restaurants and souvenir shops and a small memorial to General Bataille, killed here on 8th September 1914. The crossroads marks the beginning of the Route des Cretes, originally a  communications and supply route constructed across the mountains by French engineers in 1915. It is now part of a fairly extensive road network criss-crossing the Vosges, well-surfaced and surely a far cry from the treacherous morass of the war years. For good reason, 'Route Barre' signs are a common sight on the Route des Cretes during the winter months It is a wonderful Alpine landscape: precipitous slopes covered in pines and firs, little mountain-side cottages; the metal stanchions of cable-car lifts sticking strangely out from the side of the road; the tinkling of distant cow-bells drifting softly over the hills.
In winter, the scene is transformed into a fabulous snow-covered wonderland. Snow-tyres are of course essential; there are plenty of roadsigns to that effect and they are ignored at your peril. By early spring the majority of roads are at least partially clear but it is quite normal to see snow still piled up high by the roadsides as late as Easter. Having a “Route Barre’ sign staring at you with no  alternative route to where you want to go is just one of the joys (and frustrations) of driving in the Vosges!
Le Tete des Faux
The Tete des Faux marks the highest point of the Western Front. It can be reached by various routes, most easily from the popular ski resort of Lac Blanc. On reaching the ski station just before the lake, there is a car park and beside it, a small memorial ‘aux Braves Alpines Mort’. From here, the path to the Tete des Faux and the Duchesne French Military Cemetery is clearly signposted. In winter the path becomes a busy ski route and attempts to negotiate on foot are likely to encourage bemused looks from the ski-ing fraternity. More sensibly, snow shoes or skis can be hired from the hut next to the car park.
The path comes eventually to an unmarked fork; time for a lucky guess. Veer left and soon the French Military Cemetery comes into view. At an altitude of 1121m this is the highest cemetery on the Western Front. There are monuments to the 14th  Bat. Chaussers and also to Com Henri Duchesne (after whom the cemetery is named) killed here on 2nd Dec 1914. A brooding memorial cross and a large ossuary containing 86 soldiers of 152nd Regiment stand beside hundreds of French graves dating from 1914/15. The cemetery was the site of the forward operations base for French troops on the Tete des Faux.
Looking towards the summit of the Tete des Faux
From the cemetery, things get a bit more daunting (and dangerous) with a short but very steep upward climb through the pines towards the summit of the Tete des Faux. Fortunately there is a path of sorts, originally made by French engineers for mules to carry supplies to the front-line. You can still see metal stanchions protruding from the earth, bits of rail track, treacherous barbed wire, shell holes and other assorted debris. Please be aware in winter there is the possibility of very deep snow drifts here.
As you approach the top, a large memoria l cross comes into view, built upon the remains of a French fortification. A memorial is passed to Captain Demmler and men of the 62nd Bat. Chausseurs Alpine killed here on 6th July 1916. Graves virtually obscured by deep snow at the Duchesne French Military Cemetery It really is worth coming this far just for the scenery: in the foreground the view is towards the Col du Bonhomme. Further afield, there is a panoramic sweep of the Alsatian Plain and to the east, the view is across the Rhine Valley towards the Black Forest. To the south-east lie the Jura mountains and the Swiss Alps.
Scenic it may be but much blood was spilled on the Tete des Faux in the winter of 1914/15. Early skirmishes gained the French a precarious foothold; furious attack and counter-attack followed with specialist mountain troops contesting the snow-covered heights in temperatures well below freezing. After a final abortive attempt to take the summit on 21st February 1915, the Germans cut their losses and concentrated on strengthening their positions on the lower slopes. As attrition set in, the battle shifted to the neighbouring  heights of La Ligne and Veil Armand. Returning to the car park there is the opportunity to de-frost if necessary before a steep descent of the D48 in the direction of Orbey; off to the right of the road is Lac Blanc itself, partially encircled by dramatic vertical cliffs covered in pine. The frozen beauty of Lac Blanc It is a stunning sight in winter, when the lake is ice-bound and the trees leaden with snow. But the intrepid battlefield explorer doesn’t come primarily to admire the view; so it’s onwards towards the second of the Vosges’ main battle sites – Le Ligne.
PART OF ARTICLE MISSING - WILL BE RESTORED SOON
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A Note of Caution
If you are thinking of visiting the Route de Cretes battlefield sites in winter, please remember that it is potentially dangerous. You do not need to be an expert climber but as with any mountainous terrain, sensible precautions should be taken:
Snow tyres are essential; some roads are impassable and can remain closed even as late as Easter - never ignore a 'Route Barre' sign. Check which roads are open before beginning your journey.
Be prepared for long walks in fairly deep snow to reach the Tete des Faux, La Ligne and Vieil Armand. Snow shoes or skis are highly recommended and can be hired locally. Check the weather forecast before setting off The battlefield sites themselves are very isolated in winter; deep snow drifts can pose a danger; potential hazards such as barbed wire and protruding metal can be obscured by snow
Remember you are at high altitude; leave plenty of daylight hours to reach the sites and return to your car. Temperatures can suddenly drop, posing the risk of hypothermia. It is not advisable to visit the sites alone. |
The Tete des Faux battlefield is open all year round but may be difficult to access in winter *La Ligne 1915 Museum is open from April - November; please note there is no access to the battlefield when the museum is closed The Vieil Armand (Hartsmanwillerkopf) Crypt & Museum is open from April - November; the battlefield is open all year round but may be difficult to access in winter |
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