Desert boots occupy an interesting niche in the footwear world. Made from suede in a simple, two-piece construction and mounted on rubber soles, they are classic yet decidedly casual.
Their origin story can be traced back to the Second World War, when Irishman Nathan Clark was serving with the British Eighth Army and noticed its officers wearing simple, ankle-height suede boots mounted on chunky crepe soles made from natural rubber. He learned that the officers had had them made by local cobblers in Cairo after their army-issued boots gave out, and soon secured a pair for himself. After the war, he convinced his father to adapt them to the family shoe business, Clarks, which debuted its “desert boot” at the 1949 Chicago Shoe Fair.
It proved an instant success on both sides of the Atlantic, where it was soon adopted by two growing countercultures: British mods and American beatniks. Its design has changed little in the more than half-century since but tends to follow a few basic tenets: a suede upper, a low, two-eyelet profile and a rubber outsole—traditionally rough-textured crepe but also smooth, finished rubber, in the case of more modern iterations. These factors set it apart from its close cousin, the chukka, which is similar in height but can be dressier and is often made from calfskin leather with a leather dress sole.
Clarks continues to make its original desert boot, but there’s no shortage of brands and designers who’ve put their own mark on the style, some of whom we’ve rounded up below.
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Anglo-Italian Made-To-Order Desert Boots
Image Credit: Anglo-Italian A long-time champion of the desert boot, Anglo-Italian now allows clients to customize their own through a made-to-order program. Those taking part will have their pick from eight possible shades of suede for the upper, and also select either a crepe sole in three colors or a treaded Vibram outsole. Whatever the outcome, the desert boot will have all the hallmarks of Anglo-Italian’s proprietary model: a low profile and shorter height to better pair to tailored trousers, and a round toebox with a reduced toe spring.
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Drake’s Clifford Desert Boot
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Todd Snyder Nomad Boot
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Tod’s Desert Boots in Suede
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Brioni Journey Desert Boots
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Brunello Cucinelli Suede Desert Boots
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Officine Creative Dude Flexi 004 Suede Desert Boots
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Mr P. Lucien Regenerated Suede by Evolo® Desert Boots
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Gucci New Moreau Logo-Debossed Suede Desert Boots
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John Lobb Tim
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Meanforme Risedale Suede
Image Credit: Meanforme Based in Manchester, Meanforme’s idiosyncratic take on the desert boot has been championed by one of its hometown’s most famous sons, Liam Gallagher. Made with a folded-over topline, a moccasin-snitched toe, long rawhide laces and an extra chunky crepe outsole, it’s little wonder that such a bold design would appeal to a genuine rock star.
