Silence. Pure silence. I’ve been immersed in it for nearly two hours.
Yet I’m not alone. I’m sitting with a group of women who have been mute since the moment we met.
There’s been little eye contact, no hand gestures — just stillness. I catch myself wondering what’s occupying their minds.
Are their inner voices as loud as mine, or are they in quiet harmony with themselves? I refocus. This is about me and my journey.
I’m deep into a ‘Day in Silence’ at Tofta Retreat, sipping tea after a yoga session with Suzanne. Location: West Sweden.
The day weaves together stretching, mindfulness, and meditation, all observed in silence —even during breaks— to deepen the experience.
In June 2026, Tofta Retreat will be 20. It is a vision brought to life by owner Camilla Neuendorf after she stumbled across the village in 1998.
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In a world moving at top speed, I’m trying to embrace calm by switching off all verbal communication. Normally, I’d be making small talk with my fellow yogis, but I can’t lie—it’s liberating not to feel the pressure to connect.
Instead, the silence is space to connect with myself.
We rarely ask ourselves what we want or what makes us happy, yet we demand these answers from loved ones as naturally as the sun rises.
Since arriving, they’ve been quietly circling my mind.
For now, I’m enjoying the peace and tranquility of the retreat: moving my body to Suzanne’s gentle guidance in yoga, and relishing the freedom of unplugging from constant digital and social stimulation.
I like silent Sabi.
Switching off
It’s no surprise that silent retreats are rising in popularity. Silence and stillness offer clarity—about our lives, our values, our sense of purpose.
I’m glad I chose Tofta for my first. Sweden is one of Europe’s most sparsely populated countries, with 69% forest cover and just three% of its land inhabited.
We are confronted by this expansiveness during an hour-long forest bathing session.
Suzanne encourages us to stay mindful and present as we walk. ‘Look around you,’ she urges. ‘Notice what you see. Listen to the sounds of nature—not your inner voice.’
At first, it’s easier said than done, but with each step I am getting there.
Whenever a thought arises, I remind myself to return to the present.
Staying silent, however, proves more challenging when I feel rude for not thanking the woman who holds a gate open for me, or when I have to stop myself from pointing out a fascinating plant to the walker behind me.
Back at the retreat, learning to eat in silence is a real treat. Homemade pumpkin soup, warm bread thick with butter, followed by energy balls —enjoyed without distraction — is deeply satisfying.
I’m fully immersed in this most basic human need. Even without words, sharing space creates a supportive, focused atmosphere.
It’s rest time, and while the hammock outside is tempting, the cold drives me indoors.
I sink into a giant bean bag in the chill-out zone and focus on the rhythm of my breath. It can’t have been long before I’m startled awake. A glance at the clock reveals that I’ve been asleep for over an hour.
I’m glad the rest of the day is devoted to yin yoga, a practice of inner listening. As I become aware of where tension lives in my body, I lean into it — it’s strangely comforting.
The session flows into a closing meditation before Suzanne announces that the Day of Silence has come to an end. I’m genuinely sad.
I don’t want it to be over. It’s only been a day, yet I feel a deep pull towards a simpler, calmer, quieter life. I vow to create more space for pockets of silence away from the retreat.
That opportunity arrives sooner than expected as I drive deep into Dalsland’s striking natural landscape the following day. Often described as Sweden in miniature, this province in West Sweden borders Norway to the west and Lake Vänern to the east.
I arrive at Swedish Country Living, set within a rolling cultural landscape of ancient oaks and glistening streams.
Run by husband-and-wife duo David and Marie Naraine, it’s considered one of the most environmentally friendly accommodations in West Sweden.
I’ve committed to staying in one of their Hermitage concept cottages — completely off-grid, without electricity or running water. It’s both daunting and thrilling.
The estate and its trio of cottages hum with thoughtful creativity and a deep commitment to sustainability.
As David and Marie show me around the cottages and farm complete with a small abattoir and shop, he explains how everything is interconnected, from the design ethos to the grazing animals that help preserve biodiversity.
Yet Marie and David’s path to this life was far from conventional. Both worked in the fashion industry when they bought a turn-of-the-century villa outside Köpmannebro as a summer retreat.
Before long, they realised they wanted to make it home—and to share its beauty with others.
‘We registered the Swedish Country Living name before we really knew what it would become,’ David tells me. ‘Since then, we’ve learned as we’ve gone—from clearing forests to caring for our animals.’
I’m instantly impressed as I wander through the architect-designed cottages. David and Marie have sourced recycled materials from their own forest, farm, and neighbourhood.
A solid wooden door dates to the 1700s, while one cottage roof is made from 4,000 slates—each one painstakingly hammered in place over six tough weeks. It’s a true labour of love.
I retreat to my rustic Hermitage cottage, which is as close to nature as it gets. Inside, a glowing fireplace, a simple table and chairs, and a large bed sit within a cocoon of Scandinavian country charm.
Sheepskin rugs soften the space while books on the shelf above a reclining chair oozes simple creature comfort. It’s understated yet stylish, and perfectly suited to solitude and reflection.
The recycling centre is the estate’s newest addition. At the front sits the orangery, where breakfast and dinner are served; at the back are individual bathrooms for each cottage, with floors and walls crafted from wattle and daub. Waste from the toilets is composted; its nutrients returned to the soil.
The building also operates a circular water system: water is drawn from the nearby lake, while grey water is filtered and purified by plants in the greenhouse.
Food on the estate is produced locally through in-house regenerative agriculture—and it’s every bit as good as it sounds.
The organic, certified lamb stew I tuck into, accompanied by fresh vegetables, is divine. Satiated, I return to my cottage and sink onto the bed, ready for a deep night’s sleep.
I wake up to the call of nature and briefly dread leaving the warmth of my bed to head to the recycling centre in the dark.
It’s still night, just shy of dawn. Yet there’s something bewitching about the cold air on my face in the heart of the forest. Everything is silent—just as it was at the retreat. A pure moment of calm.
Dalsland’s accessibility makes it ideal for outdoor pursuits such as canoeing, boating, and cycling (I highly recommend a session with Erik Josefsson of Dalsland Experience).
Guests staying at Swedish Country Living can also use the on-site canoes to paddle across to the nearby island.
Sweden is home to several archipelagos and more than 267,000 islands — the most of any country in the world.
To experience them, I reluctantly leave this sanctuary and head to Grebbestad to meet Ingela and Marcus of Skärgårdsidyllen for a pre-booked kayoga session.
Like David and Marie, the couple left behind a hectic life in Gothenburg to live and work closer to the ocean. They offer a wide range of outdoor experiences, but it’s kayoga that draws me in.
I glide away in my single kayak alongside Ingela, who shares insights into Sweden’s rugged coastline.
Grebbestad, I learn, supplies up to 90% of the country’s oysters—though they’re not on the menu when we stop at a small island for yoga. Instead, I enjoy a traditional Swedish fika: coffee and a bun.
With a satisfied belly, certified yoga teacher Ingela guides me through a short session designed to release the stiffness that comes from sitting in the kayak. We twist and lengthen tired muscles, wringing out the clicks and creaks against the backdrop of the surrounding coastline.
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There’s no doubt that a silent retreat offers space for introspection, deep mental rest, heightened self-awareness, and renewed focus. I couldn’t have chosen a better place than Sweden for my first.
Even the doctors agree: Sweden recently became the first country in the world to prescribe nature to improve wellbeing.
This is one doctor’s order I’m more than happy to follow.
Getting there
Ryanair operates frequent direct flights from London Stansted (STN) to Gothenburg Landvetter (GOT).
British Airways offers direct flights from London Heathrow (LHR) to Gothenburg, while Norwegian Air Sweden also has direct services from London Gatwick (LGW) to Gothenburg.
Sabi Phagura was a guest of Vast Sverige (West Sweden) and Tofta Retreat, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything — our reviews are 100% independent.
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