I have a video on my phone that captures our last family holiday perfectly. Looking skyward, a palm tree’s leaves sway gently against a beautiful blue sky with just a wisp of cloud in the background — a simple reminder of an idyllic paradise I was lucky enough to visit with my husband and teenage sons.
Taking two gamer boys aged 15 and 18 somewhere more associated with couples and romance (not to mention megabucks) was a risk. Even the most reasonable teenager would be put to the test in a place without a console in sight.
But you would hope that in the playground of the Maldives, there would be little to complain about.
What made our break all the more precious was that my eldest son would be heading off to uni a few days after we returned. Not knowing when – or where – we’ll next holiday together, it turned out to be the perfect farewell to everything we had known as our little unit of four.
For the first time in ages, we chatted at length without distractions. We did crosswords, played cards, ate together as a four without the stresses of school or work nipping at our heels. And we had fun — god, so much fun.
After all, who doesn’t feel like a big kid when driving a bright blue oversized car in the ocean, or going down a slide from your bedroom into the sea?
Let’s address the elephant in the room: there’s no denying this all comes at a price.
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But with many resorts in the Maldives now classed as ‘attainable luxury’, and holidays to Disney or even a decent Mediterranean all-inclusive going into the thousands, if you’re looking for that one unforgettable family getaway, this is as good as it gets.
Our heavenly home
An archipelagic nation in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives is made up of around 1,200 islands grouped into 26 coral atolls.
While researching for our trip, I learned some devastating facts. By 2050, it’s expected that a sizable chunk of the Maldives will be uninhabitable due to rising sea levels caused by climate change.
That’s not to say the country isn’t working hard to prevent it. There are projects to protect coral reefs and shorelines, a ‘green’ tax charged to tourists, and a goal to reach net-zero emissions by 2030.
Another symptom of climate change in the Maldives is the unpredictability of the weather.
When we went in mid-August, it was supposed to be the rainy season, but for four days, it was (mostly) glorious sunshine.
After that, we’d have a downpour (sometimes welcome), before the dark clouds would clear again. The temperature hovered between the late 20s and early 30s throughout.
Our trip was split between two resorts owned by the Maldivian, family-run Sun Siyam brand. The first stop was Sun Siyam Olhuveli on the South Male Atoll, accessed by a 45-minute boat ride from the airport, followed by Siyam World in the Noonu Atoll, a 50-minute seaplane ride away.
At each resort, guests were greeted White Lotus-style; staff waited with big smiles and necklaces made of palm leaves.
On our walk down the jetty, we were serenaded by the traditional blowing of the conch shell, and check-in was far from painful — done with a cocktail in hand, it was just the beginning of the warm welcome that extended over eight nights.
The Maldivians are known for their welcoming nature and had my kids smiling and chatting within hours.
With frequent electric buses ferrying guests around each resort to different stops, it was easy to get about, although exploring on foot was just as much fun and meant we got to see the islands’ huge fruit bats hanging from trees. Although harmless, they like to play and swoop, which is a bit of a fright if you’re not prepared.
Getting deep
I had never snorkelled before, so to learn somewhere that is considered one of the best places in the world due to its incredible marine ecosystem was a real privilege.
Home to 180 types of coral and over 2,000 species of fish, underwater explorers come face to face with rays, sharks, turtles, and dolphins on a regular basis.
Some we found dancing around the reefs on our doorstep, others we went in search of on boat trips into the Indian Ocean.
Less than 24 hours after putting on flippers for the first time, I was jumping off the edge of a boat, desperate to catch a glimpse of these amazing creatures.
It was mindblowing, but my favourite outing was a more sedate snorkelling safari.
Beforehand, we were given a passionate rundown of the different fish we might see from our marine biologist guide — he wasn’t exaggerating.
The rainbow of colours that swam in front of our eyes as soon as we were in the water was like Attenborough’s Blue Planet on acid. Aside from the endless schools of fish, Blacktip sharks glided below, and eagle rays darted around next to us.
At one moment, I grabbed my husband and son’s hands. Not out of fear, but to make sure we were all taking in the magic.
What else?
While snorkelling was undoubtedly the focus of our trip, there were other things to keep us occupied.
Our eldest joined us on a Maldivian cooking class, where we learned to make a traditional tuna curry and Dhonkeyu Kaju (a delicious deep-fried banana pudding). It also gave insight into the food on offer in the restaurants on each resort.
Coconut-based curries were, of course, in abundance, but there were buffets for the days when you fancied something else, not to mention magnificent seafood (tuna carpaccio to die for). Restaurants came in all forms, too: on the beach, on stilts in the ocean, deep in the lush greenery of the islands.
Another favourite for me (no surprise) was the spa. It felt rude not to take an hour out for a little pampering in paradise.
In Olhuveli, as I popped my head through the massage table, I looked down through a window into the ocean and melted into blissful relaxation, watching the fish below.
Of course, being island-based the watersports were next level.
We couldn’t resist a zip around the ocean in the luxury-looking jet car, and our youngest tried his hand at flyboarding, which looked impossible to master, yet within a few minutes (and the fearlessness that comes with youth), he was balancing a few feet in the air on a huge jet of water.
Siyam World is also home to the biggest inflatable park in the Maldives, and we arrived just as a new (and even bigger) version was unveiled. Free to use, it offered a good alternative to other water-based activities, which needed booking and paying for.
Just before sunset on our final night, we headed out again in search of dolphins.
Before long, they were zipping under around our boat, twirling and jumping through the air, as if the display was just for us. As we crowded to get a look, the crew popped a cork. Sunset, dolphins, fizz, and family. Bliss.
So which did we prefer?
To say which resort was our favourite is an impossible task. Both welcomed families like ours with open arms, each with an incredibly different experience.
Olhuveli is a four-star resort made up of three tiny, walkable islands connected by bridges.The furthest (Romance Island) is adults only and operated by Tui. Throughout the resort, the atmosphere is chilled. There are kids here, but not in abundance, so everything feels a little calmer.
That’s not to say it was too quiet. There are pools everywhere – it boasts the longest in the Maldives, at 210m – as well as a watersports centre (where we took the jet car out for a spin), plus a beach-side pizza restaurant for the teens, bars for us, and paddleboarding in the lagoon.
However, Siyam World feels more of a family-focused resort, which we clocked straight away.
The ‘buzz’ of young families on holiday was louder and took a bit of getting used to, but there were also things that this five-star resort offered that the other didn’t, such as go-karting and a sports bar.
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At both resorts we had our own pool. Ohluvei offered our own slice of beach and sea, whereas at Siyam World we had a slide that went straight into the ocean. Both were ‘pinch-me’ extras — how could you possibly choose between the two?
After all, whether it’s sand or sea you wake up to, the Maldives is far more beautiful as you can ever imagine. Even now, I don’t think I managed to take it all in.
And not once were we bored. If we weren’t snorkelling or splashing in the sea, we were eating, walking or simply soaking up each other’s company.
With so many new family memories made, I know this is a holiday we will talk about for years to come.
Staying in the Maldives
Sun Siyam have five resorts in the Maldives and a resort on the east coast of Sri Lanka. At the 4* Sun Siyam Olhuveli a beach pavilion starts from £250 on BB and £430 on all-inclusive and at the 5* Siyam World an overwater villa with pool and slide starts from £769 on all-inclusive. Both prices are per villa per night and based on two adults and one child under 12 sharing. Book at sunsiyam.com
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