Guido Plum
LIFE IS AN ARTIST…….
Observations from an artistic perspective
Focus on Loom Design & reconstruction of ancient ethnic loin looms…..
An extraordinary designed denim, handwoven on an ancient ethnic loin loom - how do these topics fit together? Once born on Bali - back in 1990 - this idea is the essence running the projects at the Loin Loom Lab & Sunday afterLOOM of Mac & Magic Loom Design!
The aim of these efforts is to create a collection of ethnic loin looms from the legacies of the Buitenzorg Weefwerk by Theodora Elizabeth & Hendrik Pieter van Motman-Schiff!
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DAS LEBEN IST EIN KÜNSTLER.......
Beobachtungen aus einer künstlerischen Perspektive
Fokus auf Webstuhl-Design & Rekonstruktion alter ethnischer Lendenwebstühle.....
Ein außergewöhnlich gestalteter Denim, handgewebt auf einem alten ethnischen Lendenwebstuhl - wie passen diese Themen zusammen? Einst auf Bali geboren - im Jahr 1990 - ist diese Idee die Essenz der Projekte im Loin Loom Lab & Sunday afterLOOM von Mac & Magic Loom Design!
Ziel dieser Bemühungen soll sein, aus den Hinterlassenschaften des Buitenzorg Weefwerk von Theodora Elizabeth & Hendrik Pieter van Motman-Schiff eine Kollektion ethnischer Lendenwebstühle zu erstellen!
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HIDUP ADALAH SENIMAN…….
Observasi dari perspektif artistik
Fokus pada Desain Alat Tenun & rekonstruksi alat tenun pinggang etnik kuno…..
Denim berdesain luar biasa, ditenun tangan di atas alat tenun pinggang etnik kuno - bagaimana kedua topik ini saling terkait? Berawal di Bali - pada tahun 1990 - ide inilah yang menjadi inti dari proyek-proyek di Loin Loom Lab & Sunday afterLOOM dari Mac & Magic Loom Design!
Tujuan dari upaya ini adalah untuk menciptakan koleksi alat tenun pinggang etnik dari warisan Buitenzorg Weefwerk karya Theodora Elizabeth & Hendrik Pieter van Motman-Schiff!
Supervisors: Samson D. Sauerbier and Matthias Eberle
Address: Frere-Roger-Str. 6
52062 Aachen - Germany
Observations from an artistic perspective
Focus on Loom Design & reconstruction of ancient ethnic loin looms…..
An extraordinary designed denim, handwoven on an ancient ethnic loin loom - how do these topics fit together? Once born on Bali - back in 1990 - this idea is the essence running the projects at the Loin Loom Lab & Sunday afterLOOM of Mac & Magic Loom Design!
The aim of these efforts is to create a collection of ethnic loin looms from the legacies of the Buitenzorg Weefwerk by Theodora Elizabeth & Hendrik Pieter van Motman-Schiff!
——————————————————
DAS LEBEN IST EIN KÜNSTLER.......
Beobachtungen aus einer künstlerischen Perspektive
Fokus auf Webstuhl-Design & Rekonstruktion alter ethnischer Lendenwebstühle.....
Ein außergewöhnlich gestalteter Denim, handgewebt auf einem alten ethnischen Lendenwebstuhl - wie passen diese Themen zusammen? Einst auf Bali geboren - im Jahr 1990 - ist diese Idee die Essenz der Projekte im Loin Loom Lab & Sunday afterLOOM von Mac & Magic Loom Design!
Ziel dieser Bemühungen soll sein, aus den Hinterlassenschaften des Buitenzorg Weefwerk von Theodora Elizabeth & Hendrik Pieter van Motman-Schiff eine Kollektion ethnischer Lendenwebstühle zu erstellen!
———————————————
HIDUP ADALAH SENIMAN…….
Observasi dari perspektif artistik
Fokus pada Desain Alat Tenun & rekonstruksi alat tenun pinggang etnik kuno…..
Denim berdesain luar biasa, ditenun tangan di atas alat tenun pinggang etnik kuno - bagaimana kedua topik ini saling terkait? Berawal di Bali - pada tahun 1990 - ide inilah yang menjadi inti dari proyek-proyek di Loin Loom Lab & Sunday afterLOOM dari Mac & Magic Loom Design!
Tujuan dari upaya ini adalah untuk menciptakan koleksi alat tenun pinggang etnik dari warisan Buitenzorg Weefwerk karya Theodora Elizabeth & Hendrik Pieter van Motman-Schiff!
Supervisors: Samson D. Sauerbier and Matthias Eberle
Address: Frere-Roger-Str. 6
52062 Aachen - Germany
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Selamat Mimpi! Here it comes, the long-promised book of dreams as a supplementary of our studies on the loin looms of Flores and the surrounding islands in eastern Indonesia. The most important tools that are necessary for the preparation, warping, tying the patterns and setting up the warp for Ikat are presented here. T-reels (for warping the warp), the Ikat frame (for tying the patterns), the tensioning frame (for controlling and setting up the warp) and also an alternative method to set-up the warp on a temporarily externally-tensioned loin loom are presented, including a stretching frame (for stretching the warp). Smaller alternatives to the tension frame aren‘t listed in this sketch book.
A variety of drawings illustrate in short strokes the necessary steps to prepare an Ikat textile. The drawings are described in Indonesian and English and extended by a few photos by Sabine Wunderlin & Willemijn de Jong, which show Mama Ango preparing an Ikat warp and weaving on her traditional loin loom on Flores.
The sketch-book is dedicated to Mama Ango in Nggela in the Ende-region of Central Flores in eastern Indonesia, who guided us through the dream. But also a heartfelt thank you to all the other weavers on Flores.
!!!!ATTENTION: The download-file was slightly corrupted, again. two pages were missing the English textphrase and a drawing. Now it seems fine, but please check it! We apologize for these complications.
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[ID] - BAHASA INDONESIA:
Selamat Mimpi! Inilah dia, buku mimpi yang telah lama dijanjikan sebagai pelengkap studi kita tentang alat tenun pinggang di Flores dan pulau-pulau sekitarnya di Indonesia bagian timur.
Alat-alat terpenting yang diperlukan untuk persiapan, pemasangan lungsin, pengikatan pola, dan pengaturan lungsin untuk tenun Ikat disajikan di sini. T-reel/T ganda (untuk memasang lungsin), bingkai Ikat (untuk mengikat pola), bingkai penegang (untuk mengontrol dan mengatur lungsin), dan juga metode alternatif untuk mengatur lungsin pada alat tenun pinggang yang sementara ditegangkan secara eksternal disajikan, termasuk bingkai peregang (untuk meregangkan lungsin). Alternatif yang lebih kecil untuk bingkai penegang tidak tercantum dalam buku sketsa ini.
Berbagai gambar mengilustrasikan secara singkat langkah-langkah yang diperlukan untuk mempersiapkan tekstil Ikat. Gambar-gambar tersebut dijelaskan dalam bahasa Indonesia dan Inggris dan dilengkapi dengan beberapa foto karya Sabine Wunderlin & Willemijn de Jong, yang menunjukkan Mama Ango sedang mempersiapkan lungsin Ikat dan menenun di alat tenun pinggang tradisionalnya di Flores.
Buku sketsa ini didedikasikan untuk Mama Ango di desa Nggela, kabupaten Ende, Flores Tengah, Indonesia bagian timur, yang telah membimbing kami dalam mewujudkan mimpi ini. Namun juga ucapan terima kasih yang tulus kepada semua penenun lainnya di Flores.
!!!!PERHATIAN: File unduhan sedikit rusak lagi. Dua halaman kehilangan teks bahasa Inggris dan sebuah gambar. Sekarang tampaknya sudah baik, tetapi mohon periksa kembali! Kami mohon maaf atas ketidaknyamanan ini.
The loom of the Sobei people extends the list of looms used in Indonesia to include the group of foot looms (alat tenun kaki).
A list of components of the Sobei people is delivered by BUCKLEY et. al. 2023.
The fact that Jasper & Pirngadie did not include this only known model of an Indonesian foot loom in their collection is probably due to the rarity and remoteness of the area, but also reflects the fact that even experts would not have been aware of its presence.
In addition, there seems to have been little awareness of the presence of loin looms outside Indonesia and the mere existence of foot looms in the surrounding countries, which should have been a prerequisite for any meaningful investigation.
Keywords: Loin Loom, Foot Loom, Sobei, Papua, Indonesia
Once again, a woman from Larantuka causes a great stir! No, this time it isn't a legendary Pippi Longstocking, but, as Steven Alpert describes, "perhaps the most iconic piece of all in the Indonesian collection (of the National Gallery of Australia) and (is) of special historical relevance for its subject matter and age….."! We are talking about Mama Wulu, the mysterious bronze figure of a woman working on a backstrap loom; with an infant consuming her bosoms at the same time! Not a revolutionary matter, one might think, but the busy lady actually proves sensational potential for current events! With her loin loom she may not be able to lift horses like some free spirits, yet not able to move mountains, but gradually shaking our shape-taking idea and making it flexible!
The extended script has received an extensive supplement to the background events and prehistory.
Einmal wieder erregt eine Frau aus Larantuka großes Aufsehen! Nein, diesmal handelt es sich nicht um eine legendäre Pippi Langstrumpf, sondern um, wie Steven Alpert beschreibt, „das vielleicht kultischste Stück in der indonesischen Sammlung (der National Gallery of Australia) und (ist) für sein Thema und sein Alter von besonderer historischer Relevanz……..“! Die Rede ist von Mama Wulu, die rätselhafte Bronzefigur einer Frau, die an einem Rückengurt-Webstuhl arbeitet; mit einem Säugling, der zugleich an ihren Busen zehrt! Keine revolutionäre Angelegenheit möge man meinen, doch die vielbeschäftigte Dame beweist tatsächlich aufsehenerregendes Potential zum aktuellen Zeitgeschehen! Mit ihrem Hüftwebstuhl kann sie vielleicht nicht wie manch Freigeist Pferde stemmen, noch Berge versetzen, doch unsere Form annehmende Vorstellung allmählich erschüttern und flexibel gestalten! So ergießt sich allein durch Betrachtung ihrer äußeren Erscheinung alle Deutung unerwartet aus ihren Augen und ergreift unseren Sinn: War hier der frühe Vogel des Expressionismus am Werk? ….doch der Vogel scheint ausgeflogen!
Das erweiterte Skript hat einen umfangreichen Nachtrag zum Hintergrundgeschehen und Vorgeschichte erhalten.
: Skulptur, Bronzefigur, Lendenwebstuhl, Fußwebstuhl, Larantuka, Taka-Tuka-Land, Flores, Indonesien.
Our yet ongoing project examines ethnic loin looms on the island of Flores and the surrounding area in eastern Indonesia. We will first discuss the historical background of the available image material from academic collections such as the Collectie Tropenmuseum and the digital collection of Universiteit Leiden before turning to the current inventory and cross the Ikat line.
Existing literature provides a wealth of, albeit incomplete, information, but a comparative overview is currently difficult. This project aims to provide an initial remedy, focusing primarily on describing loin looms and illustrating an overview of ethnic looms on Flores with photographs and drawings. Warping devices have been added, too!
The aim was to represent the loin looms of all five regencies: Manggarai, Ngada, Ende, Sikka, and East Flores, as well as to compare loin looms of the Lamaholot and the Bima. In addition to the loin looms, ethnic warping tools will also be included in the collection, as far as information is available.
Current overviews of Indonesian loin looms, such as "De Weefkunst" published by Jasper & Pirngadie in 1912, omit Flores, and thus an important type group of Indonesian loin looms. This blind spot also affects the perception of the more extensively documented ethnic looms.
We would be very happy to receive supporting photos, further information & suggestions!
A compilation of articles from newspapers, magazines and literature of the 20 century. Mainly written in Dutch language about the so-called "Buitenzorgsch Weefwerk“ in Buitenzorg (Bogor) on West-Java, built up by Theodora Elisabeth Motman-Schiff in the 1880s. She only was practically recovering to weave authentic Indonesian textiles on ethnic loin looms(!) on scientific background, while her colleagues in this time focused on fancy Dutch batik or were weaving on kind of externally-tensioned „frame“ looms!
That her supporting husband Hendrik Pieter van Motman played an important role in that enterprise, explains the rapid disappear of her Kunstweverij after his unexpected death in 1909! From there on the reports break down rapidly!
The two essays of Banaspati, "Van Indonesische Weefsels“ and "Buitenzorgsch Weefwerk“ may introduce you to the weaving studio of Theodora! Translated versions you find in the handset!
This register is intended to pave the way for the following investigations into this remarkable weaving studio of the turn of the century!
Der ursprüngliche Aufsatz wurde in altniederländischer Sprache geschrieben, das seit 1945 veraltet ist! Die Übersetzung aus dem Altniederländischen in die englische Sprache ist maschinengestützt und geht abschnittsweise; auf das niederländische Original (in kursiven Buchstaben auf der rechten Seite) folgt seine englische Übersetzung. Einige Anmerkungen des Übersetzers wurden hinzugefügt. - Allen Dank an Sandra Sardjono (Tracing Patterns Foundation), die uns freundlicherweise über die Existenz dieses Aufsatzes informiert hat. Wir möchten hiermit gemeinsam die Übersetzung des Aufsatzes mit den Lesern teilen, um Licht auf das schattenumwobene Meisterwerk von Th. E. van Motman-Schiff zu werfen. Auch wenn es aus diesem Aufsatz allein nicht hervorgeht, war ihr Webatelier ein privat inszeniertes Pionierwerk, das den schon bald folgenden musealen Sammlungen wie auch Jasper & Pirngadie für die „Weefkunst“ den Weg gewiesen haben sollte. Die Kenntnis dieses Aufsatzes ermöglichte es uns jedenfalls, die Person hinter dem „Pseudonym“ zu identifizieren! Terimah kasih banyak, Hendrik!
Anmerkung zum Titel: Dem Hintergrund geschuldet, sollte aus gewisser Perspektive die korrekte Übersetzung besser „Von indonesischen Verflechtungen/Verwebungen“ lauten!
However, the knowledge of this essay enabled us to identify the person behind the „pen-name“! Terimah kasih banyak, Hendrik!
Note: From some perspective, according to background, the title should be properly translated by "About Indonesian Interweavings" - or to catch both parties in one: „About Indonesian Wovings“!
Use this script just in combination with the original copy; just as a support for translation!
The photo on the cover page, showing a bridal couple of the Minangkabau in the 19th century, is from the book "Durch Zentral Sumatra" by Alfred Maaß! It is not part of Rouffaer's lecture in 1901!
Jasper' & Pirngadie‘s book identified more than 20 different ethnic loin looms of Indonesia and added about 5 examples of typical frame looms. For most of them, the components of the weaving devices and their regional names are listed - more or less completely.
General experience is most people don‘t really read their book, just watch pictures and pick short phrases. For several reasons their book lacks accessibility, what this translation tries to easen! On top we deepened its structure a bit for the sake of accessibility! Your comments, suggestions and corrections of our translations are welcomed, as it needs an native English speaker to finish this job!
The Andini Project invites you to compare the book of Jasper & Pirngadie with our translated version of the essay „Buitenzorgsch Weefwerk“ written by Banaspati in 1906. Jasper & Pirngadie mention the essay in their book quiet oftenly. The essence of essay and the relation of Jasper to the author bear the potential, that this essay of Banaspati was the initialsing their book!
The appendix of this translation expands their collection by several models of Indonesian loin looms, their collection is missing. We have added them to round-up the perspective on ethnic loin looms in Indonesia. By this expansion not all ethnic loin looms of Indonesia are presented, but all types of loin looms are presented - from the rare foot loom to stilt looms, stake looms and last not least the station looms!
Added drawings are made by Charlotte Gröger! Translation and research was done in cooperation with Andini Zatmidisuwa!
Abstract in English:
A translation of the essay "Buitenzorgsch Weefwerk" of the author Banaspati into German language. The original essay was published in 1906 as an article in the magazine "Het Daghet - een blad coor kunst en leven" in Batavia (Jakarta). A second publication followed in 1907 by Dirk van Hinloopen Labberton. The approx. 30 pages of article introduces the reader to the art weaving workshop of "Buitenzorgsch Weefwerk" headed by Mrs. Theodore Elisabeth von Motman-Schiff in today's Bogor (Buitenzorg) on West Java and introduces the visitor to the subject of Sundanese weaving art on traditional loin looms. At the time, the press accepted Hinloopen Labberton to be the author behind the pseudonym "Banaspati", but it should be none other than Theodora‘s husband Hendrik Pieter van Motman personally! The original pictures in the article are hardly reproducible; have therefore only been partially taken over. Following the translation, there are some comments, analyses and evaluations of the original by the translator. - A translation into English language can also be found in our library!
The essay is considered an important extension to the reception of the book "De Weefkunst", which was published by Johan Ernst Jasper & Mas Pirngadie in 1912. The Old Dutch spelling makes it difficult to access the extremely informative document, which this translation into English tries to simplify. The original text in Dutch language is included!
Classifieds from 1907 name Dirk van Hinloopen Labberton to be the author behind the pseudonym "Banaspati“, but it turns out, it‘s no one less than her husband Hendrik Pieter van Motman himself! ……there is life after leaving Nanggung!
- With drawing of Charlotte Gröger.
Anyway here a first counter statement: it hasn't been EXported at this period, it was IMported to Indonesia, mainly by Austronesian groups! And following a first counter thesis: The early reed didn't reach Indonesia with a flat warp, it came there along with the circular warp!
That's not what the few rare circular warps left may state, that are still used by some ethnic groups in Indonesia-i.e. the Ndona on Flores! Most of these seems to use a method binding a flat warp up to a false circular warp. A view onto the "circular" warp of the Minangkabau including a reed, may cause a change to mind!
Alternative Thesen: In Kürze dargestellt, hatte die Ankunft des Backstrap Looms im Nordosten Indiens vor vielleicht 4.000 Jahren einen sehr bedeutenden Einfluss auf die indische Kultur. Die Bildung der ayurvedischen Bewegung basiert auf der Ankunft dieser aus China stammenden Austro-asiatischen Kulturen und der Inszenierung ihrer zu Integration in den neuen Lebensraum. Kurz gesagt, der Buddhismus und Liberalisierung des heutigen Hinduismus ist wohl kaum denkbar ohne diesen Einfluss oder wäre zumindest ganz anders verlaufen. So gesehen stellen sich die Grundlagen indische Körper-und Geistesertüchtigungen, wie wir sie im Westen kennen (Yoga und Meditation) als "Trockenübungen ohne Webstuhl" dar. Die Körperübungen werden hier zum Selbstzweck und in die eigenen schon vorhandenen Kulturvorstellungen integriert.
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Abstract in English language: Buffalo in Sight - Reconstructing the loin loom of Minangkabau -
Notes from the first phase of reconstructing the loin loom of the Minangkabau on West Sumatra in Indonesia. The aim of this work is the theoretical and practically implemented reconstruction of the ancient loin loom (backstrap loom) of the Minangkabau in West Sumatra/Indonesia - which was believed to be lost; based on two photographs from 1948 from the Nationaal Archief, which should at least partially represent the supposedly lost one. The first thing to do is to examine the photographs for the components shown and to determine whether they show actually the one believed lost. Furthermore, to clarify its possible development and composition, we will compare it with 4 other loin looms, some of which have similar characteristics. Finally, we will try to recreate the „buffalo“ and bring it back to life! - A legend tells of a young thirsty calf that, through wise providence, grows into a victorious buffalo - a parable that describes the transformation of the loin loom into the frame loom of the Minangkabau!?
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Abstrak dalam bahasa Indonesia:
Kabau di Depan Mata - Merekonstruksi alat tenun pinggang Minangkabau
Tujuan dari pekerjaan ini adalah rekonstruksi teoretis dan praktis dari alat tenun pinggul Minangkabau di Sumatera Barat/Indonesia, yang diyakini telah hilang, berdasarkan dua foto dari tahun 1948 dari National Archief, yang setidaknya sebagian mewakili diduga kehilangan satu. Hal pertama yang harus dilakukan adalah memeriksa foto-foto untuk komponen yang ditampilkan dan untuk menentukan apakah komponen tersebut benar-benar diyakini hilang. Selanjutnya, untuk memperjelas kemungkinan perkembangan dan komposisinya, kami akan membandingkannya dengan 4 alat tenun pinggul lainnya yang beberapa di antaranya memiliki karakteristik yang mirip. Terakhir, kami akan mencoba membuat ulang alat tenun pinggul dan menghidupkannya kembali! - Sebuah legenda menceritakan tentang seekor anak sapi muda yang kehausan, yang melalui kebijaksanaannya tumbuh menjadi seekor kerbau yang menang - sebuah perumpamaan yang menggambarkan transformasi alat tenun pinggul menjadi alat tenun rangka Minangkabau!? (Google translation!)