It appears we have no public interface to check whether the grid is on? Downstream libraries are now replacing the private self.xaxis._gridOnMinor with the private self.xaxis._minor_tick_kw["gridOn"], which seems even worse.

Seems we need self.xaxis.grid_on(which='minor') and self.xaxis.grid_on(which='major')?

Originally posted by @jklymak in #18769 (comment)