Japanese soufflé cheesecake

You know how they say love makes you do crazy things? We usually attribute that to grand romantic gestures, but I think it can also apply to friendships. My favorite romantic example is in the classic movie “The Princess Bride,” when Princess Buttercup realizes the Dread Pirate Roberts is actually her beloved Westley after she pushes him down a hill and he screams the iconic line, “As you wish!” She then throws herself down the hill after him in a moment of desperation and devotion, seemingly unconcerned with any pain it may cause her. While I may not have sustained any physical harm, I could relate to Princess Buttercup after my most recent baking adventure.

This week, my dear friend Ashlynd and I co-hosted a Japanese food-themed party to celebrate our friend Sarah’s 30th birthday. I researched desserts that might fit the theme and landed on Japanese jiggly cheesecake. After further research, I learned it is considered one of the most technically difficult bakes around. If this had been something I was making for myself, I probably would have abandoned the idea and chosen an easier recipe. But because this was for the sake of friendship, I was determined to give Sarah the birthday cake of her dreams. After all, love really does make us do crazy things.

You may have seen this cheesecake online a few years ago, when the Japanese bakery Uncle Rikuro’s version went viral because of the dramatic way it jiggles when it comes out of the oven. More similar to a soufflé than a classic New York-style cheesecake, this cake is light, fluffy and delightfully airy. It’s whimsical and interactive – an edible experience – so naturally I wanted to bring this fun Japanese confection to my friend’s dinner plates here in Mississippi.

Little did I know, this cake truly is a technical beast. It isn’t particularly difficult to assemble, but the method and temperature are critical if you want to create baking magic. Before I began, I did extensive research. There are countless recipes out there, all claiming to be the best. I landed on Kitchen Princess Bamboo’s Second Edition No-Fail Soufflé Cheesecake recipe (princessbamboo.com). And then I altered it and added butter. Bold of me, I know.

I added butter for two reasons. First, after reading so many Japanese cheesecake recipes, I noticed most of them used butter, so it didn’t feel out of left field. Second, butter acts as a tenderizer in baked goods, adds richness and contributes to flavor. I followed my instincts and also added vanilla extract.

Here’s where things get tricky. This cake is baked in a water bath in three stages. First, it bakes for 30 minutes at 355 degrees Fahrenheit, when the initial rise and browning occur. Full disclosure: My cake cracked on top at this stage. I believe that happened because the cake was very tall and positioned on the upper rack of my oven, placing it too close to the heating element. If I make it again, I’ll bake it on a lower rack to avoid cracking.

Next, reduce the oven temperature to about 320 degrees Fahrenheit and continue baking until the surface of the cake springs back when lightly touched. Baking time varies here. Princess Bamboo’s recipe suggests 20 to 30 minutes, but my cake needed closer to an hour before it was firm enough.

Finally, turn the oven off completely, crack the door – I used a wooden spoon as a wedge – and leave the cake inside for at least 30 more minutes. This prevents shocking the cake by cooling it too quickly, which can cause it to sink. An oven thermometer is helpful for accuracy, as many ovens run hotter or cooler than the dial indicates.

After sweating over whether I got it right, briefly considering pulling an all-nighter to start from scratch, and ultimately disguising my cracked top with homemade whipped cream and fresh fruit, the cake turned out to be a success. It was light and delicate, yet unmistakably cheesecakey, with a lovely vanilla flavor. May your friends inspire you to do wild and crazy things – like baking a very complicated cheesecake – and may you express your love for them unabashedly.

JAPANESE SOUFFLÉ CHEESECAKE

Ingredients:
300 grams cream cheese
60 grams butter
80 milliliters whole milk
5 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
35 grams all-purpose flour
15 grams cornstarch
5 large egg whites
130 grams granulated sugar

Directions:
■ Line a 6-by-3-inch cake pan or springform pan with parchment paper. Wrap the bottom tightly with foil, using multiple layers to make it watertight.
■ Combine the cream cheese, butter and milk in a saucepan. Heat over low until just beginning to simmer.
■ While the dairy mixture warms, zest and juice half a lemon. Separate the egg yolks and egg whites.
■ Whisk the dairy mixture until smooth and creamy. If it remains grainy, continue heating gently until it becomes a smooth paste.
■ Add the egg yolks in two or three additions, mixing well each time and scraping down the sides of the bowl.
■ Sift in the flour and cornstarch and whisk to combine. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice and vanilla extract.
■ Strain the mixture through a sieve to remove any remaining lumps. Set aside.Begin whisking the egg whites on low speed until foamy. Gradually add the sugar, one-third at a time, allowing it to dissolve before each addition.
■ Increase the speed to high and whisk until stiff peaks form.
■ Whisk both the meringue and cream cheese mixture briefly by hand to ensure they are smooth. Add one scoop of meringue to the cream cheese mixture and whisk well to loosen the batter. Gently fold in the remaining meringue in two or three additions.
■ Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Place the pan in a deep baking dish and fill halfway with boiling water.
■ Run a chopstick or knife through the batter in small circles to release large air bubbles.
■ Bake for 30 minutes at 355 degrees Fahrenheit. Reduce the temperature to 320 degrees Fahrenheit and bake for another 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cake springs back when lightly touched.
■ Turn off the oven, crack the door slightly and leave the cake inside for 20 to 30 minutes.
■ Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack until room temperature. Carefully remove from the pan. Serve immediately or refrigerate until ready to serve. Top with whipped cream and fresh fruit, enjoy!

Kristin is a Columbus local and a graduate of MUW’s Culinary Arts Program. She lives downtown with her husband, Jon, her naughty cat Sokka and her retired sled dog, Megan. In her free time she enjoys baking, making stained glass art and hanging out with her friends. If you see her in town, say hi!

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